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Downloaded from
YTS.BZ
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Official YIFY movies site:
YTS.BZ
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[ominous rumbling]
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[boom]
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00:00:43,373 --> 00:00:46,276
- [wind howling]
- [tent rattling violently]
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[silence]
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- [radio bleeps]
- [wind howling]
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[man]
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00:01:03,930 --> 00:01:05,625
- [radio crackles]
- [silence]
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00:01:06,565 --> 00:01:11,202
[man 2]
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[man]
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[radio bleeps]
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[man 3, breathlessly]
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[wind roaring]
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[ominous echo]
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[producer, in Icelandic]
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[producer]
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[in Icelandic]
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-[laughs]
-[producer responds]
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[laughs heartily]
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[producer responds indistinctly]
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00:03:03,547 --> 00:03:06,878
[Lina] I know
there are risks in this sport.
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00:03:08,147 --> 00:03:12,453
But as much as he loves
to do something with the family
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and be in the norm,
he needs to... uh...
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00:03:17,831 --> 00:03:20,329
go and live on the edge.
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00:03:20,431 --> 00:03:24,434
- [laughter]
- [indistinct conversation]
27
00:03:25,368 --> 00:03:27,437
[Lina] We have
quite a big family
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00:03:28,236 --> 00:03:29,466
with six children.
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00:03:29,568 --> 00:03:31,071
[indistinct conversation]
30
00:03:31,173 --> 00:03:33,143
[Lina] But at home,
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it's like his mind is,
like, spinning.
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00:03:40,513 --> 00:03:42,419
Sometimes it's like...
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00:03:43,924 --> 00:03:45,551
when people do great things,
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00:03:45,653 --> 00:03:48,023
it comes at the cost
of the family
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00:03:48,125 --> 00:03:49,723
who are standing by him.
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00:03:54,061 --> 00:03:58,735
But mountaineers get hooked
on the thrill of summiting.
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00:03:58,837 --> 00:03:59,997
[child laughs]
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00:04:01,401 --> 00:04:04,903
[John, in Icelandic]
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00:04:23,197 --> 00:04:25,022
[indistinct announcement
over loud speaker]
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00:04:26,028 --> 00:04:30,566
[John]
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00:04:51,892 --> 00:04:53,787
[tense music playing]
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00:04:55,361 --> 00:04:57,021
[Angela Benavides]
I'm a sport journalist.
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00:04:57,923 --> 00:05:00,959
I report
on mountaineering expeditions.
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00:05:03,668 --> 00:05:06,937
The time of pioneers,
the time of adventures is gone.
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00:05:07,039 --> 00:05:08,638
[notification bleeps]
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00:05:09,241 --> 00:05:12,242
These days, thousands of people
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00:05:12,344 --> 00:05:14,841
flock to the Himalayas
every season.
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- [notification bleeps]
- Posting their stories
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00:05:18,785 --> 00:05:19,950
on Instagram.
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[notification bleeps]
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Especially Everest.
It's completely crazy.
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[in Icelandic]
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00:05:29,890 --> 00:05:33,332
[Angela] But K2 in Pakistan
was different.
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It's such a dangerous mountain.
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[mouse clicks]
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So, John Snorri
announcing his intention
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00:05:43,504 --> 00:05:46,444
to summit K2 in winter,
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that really was a story.
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[in Icelandic]
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[exhales]
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00:06:04,661 --> 00:06:07,227
[Angela] There are 14 peaks
around the world
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above 8,000 meters.
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00:06:11,470 --> 00:06:14,036
Thirteen of them
had been climbed in winter,
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00:06:14,138 --> 00:06:15,737
except for one:
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00:06:16,203 --> 00:06:17,376
K2.
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The Savage Mountain.
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[Elia Saikaly]
K2 had been on my radar
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for a very long time.
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00:06:26,716 --> 00:06:29,047
You know,
my job is to sniff out stories.
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But I still never felt
like I was quite ready for K2.
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You know,
one in four die who summit.
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That was the old statistic.
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And, you know, K2 is hard enough
in the summertime.
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Completely deadly in wintertime.
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[wind whistling]
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[Elia] For decades,
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particularly the Polish
and the Russians
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have been attempting
to climb K2 in winter.
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00:06:57,915 --> 00:07:01,552
There were multiple attempts
and none of them
were successful.
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00:07:02,251 --> 00:07:03,447
[climber grunts]
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00:07:04,283 --> 00:07:10,324
This is the holy grail
for high altitude mountaineers.
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There are no more
historic records.
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K2 winter was the last first.
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[distant rumbling]
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00:07:33,546 --> 00:07:35,685
[wind whistling]
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[in Icelandic]
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[grunts]
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Okay.
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[exclaims]
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[sighs]
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[Mohsin, in English]
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[John, in English]
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[rumbling, clattering]
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[echoing]
And here is another one! Look!
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[man] My God!
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00:08:56,497 --> 00:08:57,429
[John grunts]
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[wind howling]
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00:09:02,036 --> 00:09:04,837
[Elia] Most people
are under an illusion
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00:09:04,939 --> 00:09:06,842
that there's safety
at base camp.
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00:09:08,412 --> 00:09:10,548
Because you got manpower
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00:09:10,650 --> 00:09:13,651
that's preparing the tents,
the food, the water.
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00:09:15,422 --> 00:09:17,617
But the reality is,
it's freezing.
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00:09:17,720 --> 00:09:20,253
Like, some days, it's minus 50.
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Right, and in the thin air,
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00:09:22,824 --> 00:09:24,827
your body
is slowly shutting down.
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00:09:25,894 --> 00:09:29,400
So everybody there
is on borrowed time.
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00:09:29,502 --> 00:09:31,398
["Naughty Boy"
by Nahid Akhtar plays]
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00:09:31,500 --> 00:09:34,331
[woman vocalizing]
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00:09:36,842 --> 00:09:41,177
[Angela] John Snorri had hired
two climbing companions.
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00:09:41,646 --> 00:09:46,315
Ali Muhammad Sadpara
from Pakistan
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00:09:46,417 --> 00:09:49,087
and Ali's son, Sajid.
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00:09:49,189 --> 00:09:50,416
[camera shutter clicks]
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00:09:50,518 --> 00:09:51,651
[song continues]
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00:09:51,754 --> 00:09:54,718
♪ Naughty boy, naughty boy ♪
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[Lina] When you are
alone in the mountain,
you get, like, vulnerable.
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♪ Ho you come here ♪
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00:10:03,863 --> 00:10:04,795
♪ Naughty boy... ♪
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00:10:04,897 --> 00:10:08,367
But with Ali and Sajid,
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00:10:08,469 --> 00:10:14,074
when they start
to climb together,
everybody got so close.
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00:10:15,375 --> 00:10:17,974
[Ali]
John, what are you thinking
about wind here?
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00:10:18,076 --> 00:10:19,615
[John] The wind is too strong.
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00:10:19,717 --> 00:10:22,652
- I went out here to pee...
- Yeah.
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00:10:22,755 --> 00:10:25,086
...before my pee hit the ground,
it was frozen.
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00:10:25,188 --> 00:10:25,949
Yes.
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00:10:26,052 --> 00:10:29,086
So, the situation is like that.
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00:10:29,188 --> 00:10:31,492
- Yeah.
- So, we have to wait and see.
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00:10:31,594 --> 00:10:33,025
- Yeah.
- All right.
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00:10:33,128 --> 00:10:35,634
- [sing-song] A, B, C.
- [sing-song] A, B, C.
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00:10:36,201 --> 00:10:37,897
[John, shouting]
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00:10:38,100 --> 00:10:41,265
- [song continues]
- [shower water splashing]
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00:10:41,367 --> 00:10:43,967
[Lina] I think Ali
was a little bit like John.
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00:10:44,070 --> 00:10:46,408
A jolly guy, you know? [laughs]
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00:10:46,510 --> 00:10:47,841
[John, laughing] Whoa!
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00:10:47,943 --> 00:10:50,079
[Lina] They had
a good time together.
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00:10:50,182 --> 00:10:51,108
[laughter]
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00:10:51,210 --> 00:10:54,411
Hey, this is our shower.
The best shower.
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00:10:56,782 --> 00:11:02,254
[Sajid, in Urdu]
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00:11:07,433 --> 00:11:09,197
[in English] Wow, very nice.
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00:11:09,399 --> 00:11:12,464
[Sajid, in Urdu]
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00:11:12,666 --> 00:11:15,366
[song continues]
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00:11:28,154 --> 00:11:30,084
[song continues]
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00:11:40,861 --> 00:11:43,326
♪ Ho you come here... ♪
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00:11:43,429 --> 00:11:46,797
[Lina] John was so happy
about this friendship.
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00:11:47,367 --> 00:11:50,734
I think it was something
that he didn't expect.
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00:11:50,836 --> 00:11:52,043
♪ Ho you ♪
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00:11:52,145 --> 00:11:53,276
[John giggles]
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00:11:53,378 --> 00:11:54,912
♪ Come here... ♪
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00:11:55,181 --> 00:11:57,115
Exercise. Yes.
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00:11:57,217 --> 00:11:58,183
♪ Naughty boy ♪
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00:11:58,285 --> 00:12:00,018
Loving this exercise.
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00:12:00,120 --> 00:12:01,753
[song fades]
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00:12:02,849 --> 00:12:05,482
[shovel scraping]
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00:12:27,576 --> 00:12:29,506
[wind whistling]
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00:12:41,491 --> 00:12:42,794
[sniffles]
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00:12:44,793 --> 00:12:47,392
[in Icelandic, muffled]
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00:12:50,764 --> 00:12:51,803
[sniffles]
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00:12:52,270 --> 00:12:53,200
[sighs]
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00:12:59,774 --> 00:13:00,845
[camera bleeps]
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00:13:08,219 --> 00:13:09,117
Ah.
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00:13:11,757 --> 00:13:13,957
[Lina] They were alone
on the mountain
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00:13:14,490 --> 00:13:15,420
and...
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00:13:16,362 --> 00:13:19,028
everything was good.
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00:13:19,925 --> 00:13:23,835
[in Icelandic]
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00:13:33,108 --> 00:13:35,706
[Lina] But then
the other team came.
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00:13:35,908 --> 00:13:38,077
[Ali, in Urdu]
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00:13:38,446 --> 00:13:41,283
[bass guitar riff
from "Screen Shot"
by Swans plays]
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00:13:41,485 --> 00:13:45,417
[Sajid, in Urdu]
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00:13:52,398 --> 00:13:54,327
[Ali speaking Urdu]
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00:13:58,430 --> 00:14:04,070
Nimsdai
was a Himalayan rock star.
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00:14:04,172 --> 00:14:06,107
[news anchor]
...here, in the studio,
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00:14:06,209 --> 00:14:08,504
explorer Nirmal Purja,
better known as Nims--
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00:14:08,607 --> 00:14:10,575
[reporter] Nims,
just arriving in Kathmandu
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00:14:10,677 --> 00:14:14,017
after setting a world record
many didn't think possible.
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00:14:14,119 --> 00:14:16,119
[reporter 2] Nobody believed
that this could be done.
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00:14:16,221 --> 00:14:19,182
[Angela]
He had a military career
within the United Kingdom
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00:14:19,284 --> 00:14:21,120
and he was a British citizen.
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00:14:21,323 --> 00:14:24,126
And then had the vision
to do something big
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00:14:24,228 --> 00:14:28,831
and then came the idea
of breaking the speed record
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00:14:28,933 --> 00:14:31,568
to summit
all the 14 eight-thousanders.
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00:14:31,971 --> 00:14:35,170
[Nims] So the fastest time
was seven years
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00:14:35,272 --> 00:14:38,103
and then I said,
"I will do that
in seven months."
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00:14:38,205 --> 00:14:40,141
- That's insane, man.
- Yeah.
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00:14:40,243 --> 00:14:45,215
[Angela] He had used
very untraditional methods.
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00:14:45,684 --> 00:14:47,412
Like the use of helicopters
185
00:14:47,514 --> 00:14:50,947
that can take you
from one base camp to another.
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00:14:51,783 --> 00:14:56,560
And climbing, not just
with one sherpa supporting you,
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00:14:56,663 --> 00:14:58,655
but a whole team
working for you.
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00:15:04,135 --> 00:15:08,302
So, when Nimsdai joined
the winter K2 game,
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00:15:09,509 --> 00:15:10,634
he was there to win it
190
00:15:11,678 --> 00:15:14,509
in a 100-percent Nepalese team.
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00:15:14,611 --> 00:15:16,541
[song continues]
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00:15:18,082 --> 00:15:21,444
Nowadays,
nearly everybody has their own,
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00:15:21,546 --> 00:15:25,121
personal camera operator
on an expedition.
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00:15:26,959 --> 00:15:28,454
[John, in English]
Hi, nice to meet you.
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00:15:30,396 --> 00:15:31,223
[man] You too.
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00:15:31,325 --> 00:15:33,792
[Angela] And, of course,
so had Nims.
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00:15:33,894 --> 00:15:35,594
[song fades]
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00:15:35,696 --> 00:15:38,767
[Sandro Gromen-Hayes]
The first time
I saw John and Ali,
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00:15:38,869 --> 00:15:40,532
I took these photos of them.
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00:15:41,706 --> 00:15:42,633
[camera shutter clicks]
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00:15:44,977 --> 00:15:48,411
John Snorri
was probably kind of bummed.
202
00:15:49,181 --> 00:15:51,848
He'd arrived, I don't know,
a month before we had.
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00:15:51,950 --> 00:15:54,346
So he'd been
shivering his tits off
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00:15:54,448 --> 00:15:57,054
long before we even set foot
in Pakistan.
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00:15:59,018 --> 00:16:02,290
And suddenly,
there were quite a lot
of people on the mountain.
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00:16:03,863 --> 00:16:05,730
I mean,
Nims doesn't have many fans
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00:16:05,832 --> 00:16:06,963
in the mountaineering world
anyway
208
00:16:07,532 --> 00:16:10,465
and especially
when he rocks up to try and do
what you're doing...
209
00:16:10,567 --> 00:16:14,071
[laughing] I think some people
kind of wished he wasn't there.
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00:16:15,368 --> 00:16:16,569
[John, in English] Who're they?
211
00:16:17,105 --> 00:16:19,109
- [Ali]
- [John] Ah ha.
212
00:16:20,106 --> 00:16:21,474
Wow! It's like a...
213
00:16:22,615 --> 00:16:24,312
It's like a big city.
214
00:16:24,680 --> 00:16:26,011
[Ali]
215
00:16:26,213 --> 00:16:28,251
[John] Who? Where? This guy?
216
00:16:28,453 --> 00:16:29,784
[Ali]
217
00:16:29,986 --> 00:16:31,449
[multiple voices chattering]
218
00:16:31,551 --> 00:16:34,187
[Sandro] Ali and Nims
had known each other
219
00:16:34,289 --> 00:16:36,093
and spent time
in the mountains before.
220
00:16:37,194 --> 00:16:38,996
Nepal and Pakistan
have a lot in common.
221
00:16:39,098 --> 00:16:42,125
They're both very poor countries
for the most part.
222
00:16:42,661 --> 00:16:45,766
Pakistan is not quite
developed as Nepal.
223
00:16:45,868 --> 00:16:50,672
So the mountaineering industry
there is definitely
a little bit behind.
224
00:16:50,774 --> 00:16:51,670
[speaking Urdu]
225
00:16:51,872 --> 00:16:53,673
[in Urdu]
226
00:16:53,775 --> 00:16:57,213
[in Urdu]
227
00:16:58,143 --> 00:16:59,215
[Nims assents]
228
00:16:59,950 --> 00:17:00,983
[Sandro] How's it going, Ali?
229
00:17:01,085 --> 00:17:02,446
[in English]
Yeah, everything is good.
230
00:17:02,548 --> 00:17:06,219
Now we are--
24, 25 days we are here.
231
00:17:06,321 --> 00:17:07,588
- [Sandro] Whoa!
- In base camp, yeah.
232
00:17:08,058 --> 00:17:09,621
Inshallah, our plan is go...
233
00:17:09,723 --> 00:17:13,026
If wind is little bit
going down,
we go tomorrow.
234
00:17:13,495 --> 00:17:16,060
Camp one. Day after, camp two...
then we will see.
235
00:17:16,362 --> 00:17:18,402
They'll be fixing camp two up.
236
00:17:18,504 --> 00:17:19,666
[laughs] Yeah.
237
00:17:19,869 --> 00:17:21,765
[Nims, in Urdu]
238
00:17:25,270 --> 00:17:27,276
[continues in Urdu]
239
00:17:29,481 --> 00:17:33,015
[Nims]
240
00:17:33,217 --> 00:17:35,185
- [laughs, speaks Urdu]
- [Nims laughs]
241
00:17:39,219 --> 00:17:40,519
[camera shutter clicks]
242
00:17:40,821 --> 00:17:44,562
[Sandro] After a very rapid
four-day trekking to base camp,
243
00:17:44,664 --> 00:17:46,190
I felt like that was...
244
00:17:46,659 --> 00:17:48,495
maybe where I should chill
for a few days
245
00:17:48,597 --> 00:17:52,766
and let my white, skinny ass
catch up with the Sherpa.
246
00:17:53,235 --> 00:17:55,634
But this was
the last opportunity
247
00:17:55,736 --> 00:17:58,338
to get a first winter ascent
on an eight-thousander
248
00:17:58,440 --> 00:18:01,211
and Nims wanted to be
the first to summit.
249
00:18:02,076 --> 00:18:03,577
As did many others.
250
00:18:03,812 --> 00:18:08,284
[man] We're here
trekking to K2 base camp
in the Karakoram.
251
00:18:09,382 --> 00:18:10,748
The whole mountaineering scene
252
00:18:10,850 --> 00:18:14,356
was kind of
getting really itchy feet
through COVID.
253
00:18:15,759 --> 00:18:17,328
[in Spanish]
254
00:18:17,597 --> 00:18:20,860
[Sandro] And then suddenly
the first big expedition
to be open to Westerners
255
00:18:20,962 --> 00:18:22,265
was K2 winter.
256
00:18:23,195 --> 00:18:24,201
[mouse clicks]
257
00:18:26,133 --> 00:18:29,736
That's right.
A few tents back there,
that's K2 base camp. We did it.
258
00:18:29,838 --> 00:18:31,104
Woohoo!
259
00:18:31,206 --> 00:18:33,040
It's been a great journey.
260
00:18:33,409 --> 00:18:36,576
First leg, done.
We're at K2 base camp.
261
00:18:36,678 --> 00:18:38,877
Potentially my home
for the next couple months.
262
00:18:38,979 --> 00:18:41,611
I was coming off the back
of two very historic
world firsts.
263
00:18:41,713 --> 00:18:44,086
In my solo crossing
of Antarctica
264
00:18:44,188 --> 00:18:45,684
and my row across
the Drake Passage.
265
00:18:45,786 --> 00:18:48,454
Welcome to the show, Colin.
It's so good to see you.
266
00:18:48,557 --> 00:18:51,193
This is a guy
who walked across Antarctica.
267
00:18:51,295 --> 00:18:52,895
- How many days did it take you?
- 54 days.
268
00:18:52,997 --> 00:18:54,158
- By yourself?
- By myself.
269
00:18:54,260 --> 00:18:55,394
Thank you very much.
270
00:18:56,063 --> 00:18:57,427
[Colin]
And so I was already kind of,
a little bit on the lookout
271
00:18:57,529 --> 00:18:59,161
for, like, other world firsts
272
00:18:59,264 --> 00:19:01,970
or other, sort of,
pioneering expeditions
that I could take on.
273
00:19:02,072 --> 00:19:03,534
I appreciate you guys having me.
274
00:19:03,636 --> 00:19:05,238
I feel I have more energy now,
just--
275
00:19:05,340 --> 00:19:06,944
- Let's go!
- Being around you.
276
00:19:07,446 --> 00:19:10,214
[Colin] First ascents
in mountaineering
are a big deal.
277
00:19:11,544 --> 00:19:13,516
I wasn't alive
in the early 1950s
278
00:19:13,618 --> 00:19:16,082
when Mount Everest and K2
were summited
for the first time.
279
00:19:16,184 --> 00:19:20,183
It was just kinda like,
"I missed it. I guess
I wasn't born in the right era."
280
00:19:20,752 --> 00:19:22,818
So I was like,
"How can I leave my mark?
281
00:19:22,921 --> 00:19:26,189
Where can I do something first
or original?"
282
00:19:27,192 --> 00:19:30,597
National Geographic was like,
"Whoever climbs K2 in the winter
283
00:19:30,699 --> 00:19:33,533
will claim the last great prize
in mountaineering."
284
00:19:33,635 --> 00:19:36,265
Um, you know,
those are big words, obviously.
285
00:19:36,367 --> 00:19:37,769
[mouse clicks]
286
00:19:40,008 --> 00:19:43,346
Hands down,
K2 is the most dangerous
mountain in the world to climb.
287
00:19:46,584 --> 00:19:49,083
There's a bunch
of vertical faces dropping off,
you know,
288
00:19:49,185 --> 00:19:50,917
thousands and thousands of feet.
289
00:19:51,419 --> 00:19:53,385
So you can't make
a single mistake.
290
00:19:53,988 --> 00:19:58,189
It's like, you fall and you fall
directly down the entire route.
291
00:19:59,258 --> 00:20:02,461
It's hard enough in summer,
but in winter,
it's the toughest season.
292
00:20:02,563 --> 00:20:04,562
It's the coldest,
it's the darkest...
293
00:20:04,664 --> 00:20:06,734
Um, it's just
a brutal situation.
294
00:20:06,836 --> 00:20:09,005
[panting]
295
00:20:09,274 --> 00:20:12,208
And then I had just thought,
intuitively,
296
00:20:12,310 --> 00:20:14,341
winter, there's just
gonna be deeper snow
297
00:20:14,443 --> 00:20:15,943
and potential
for more avalanches.
298
00:20:16,045 --> 00:20:17,278
[camera bleeps]
299
00:20:17,380 --> 00:20:19,547
We did see
some avalanches over there.
300
00:20:21,315 --> 00:20:22,749
But actually, in winter,
301
00:20:22,851 --> 00:20:25,282
the winds are so high
on the upper part
of the mountain,
302
00:20:25,784 --> 00:20:28,121
it basically
just gets wind-scoured.
303
00:20:29,057 --> 00:20:32,457
And the winds were so violent
that they were just
dislodging rocks.
304
00:20:32,559 --> 00:20:34,494
- [rock thuds]
- [climber] Rock!
305
00:20:34,596 --> 00:20:36,664
[Colin] So thirty
or forty times per day,
306
00:20:36,766 --> 00:20:39,234
you've got anything
from the size of a pebble
like this
307
00:20:39,336 --> 00:20:41,335
to, you know,
massive rocks this size
308
00:20:41,437 --> 00:20:43,572
flying down the mountain
right at you.
309
00:20:44,008 --> 00:20:46,442
[rock clatters and thuds]
310
00:20:50,649 --> 00:20:53,951
[Tamara Lunger] K2 was
the last unclimbed peak
in the winter,
311
00:20:54,053 --> 00:20:56,983
so I knew
this is my last chance.
312
00:20:57,085 --> 00:21:02,593
I was so close
on Nanga Parbat in 2016
and now it's only K2 left.
313
00:21:02,895 --> 00:21:05,296
[in German, breathlessly]
314
00:21:10,131 --> 00:21:14,305
[Tamara, in English]
Up there, in winter,
I never felt so alone.
315
00:21:14,805 --> 00:21:17,337
[gasping]
316
00:21:17,439 --> 00:21:19,373
[Tamara]
Even if you're in a team,
317
00:21:19,475 --> 00:21:21,939
you cannot look
after somebody else.
318
00:21:23,842 --> 00:21:29,012
Everybody goes for his
or her own life.
319
00:21:30,284 --> 00:21:32,422
[heavy breathing]
320
00:21:34,485 --> 00:21:41,130
The crazy thing was, on K2,
I thought there will be
very few people.
321
00:21:41,432 --> 00:21:44,698
And then I arrive there,
"Oh, my! Holy shit!
322
00:21:45,631 --> 00:21:47,401
Where am I going right now?"
323
00:21:47,503 --> 00:21:50,601
Because it seems to me
a big expedition.
324
00:21:50,703 --> 00:21:53,405
[indistinct shouting
and chatter]
325
00:21:53,507 --> 00:21:55,444
[Colin] What had happened was
326
00:21:55,546 --> 00:21:57,875
a company
called Seven Summit Treks
had realized
327
00:21:57,977 --> 00:21:59,744
a lot of people
are interested in this project
328
00:21:59,847 --> 00:22:01,646
and so they were like,
"We should put together,
329
00:22:01,748 --> 00:22:04,086
essentially,
a commercial expedition."
330
00:22:04,388 --> 00:22:06,256
And so,
everyone that goes over there
331
00:22:06,359 --> 00:22:09,019
ends up paying
for a Seven Summit Treks permit.
332
00:22:11,124 --> 00:22:13,624
- [indistinct conversation]
- [Tamara] I met Sergi and JP.
333
00:22:13,726 --> 00:22:16,765
They were
such strong mountaineers.
334
00:22:17,334 --> 00:22:19,403
And I felt
immediately connected.
335
00:22:20,405 --> 00:22:23,640
[sing-song]
I don't want to pitch a tent.
336
00:22:23,743 --> 00:22:27,611
[Tamara] Especially to JP,
because he seemed
so beautiful to me.
337
00:22:27,713 --> 00:22:28,805
Woohoo.
338
00:22:28,907 --> 00:22:32,581
But K2 winter
is really something...
339
00:22:33,381 --> 00:22:35,483
fucking hard, you know?
340
00:22:35,885 --> 00:22:39,154
Um, and I think
that some of the people
in the base camp
341
00:22:39,257 --> 00:22:41,853
were not aware about this fact.
342
00:22:42,122 --> 00:22:45,594
[Colin]
Quite the party going on here.
That's for sure.
343
00:22:46,228 --> 00:22:50,334
[scattered chatter]
344
00:22:50,703 --> 00:22:53,701
[Arnold Coster]
So half the group
were experienced climbers.
345
00:22:54,766 --> 00:22:58,008
Uh, the other half were novices.
346
00:22:58,544 --> 00:23:00,906
I think those people
had no idea what they got into.
347
00:23:01,640 --> 00:23:02,807
[climber] Like Christmas!
348
00:23:02,976 --> 00:23:05,308
Winter expedition.
K2 winter expedition.
349
00:23:05,477 --> 00:23:09,748
The company
made a decision to go to K2
because it was COVID time.
350
00:23:09,850 --> 00:23:12,288
We couldn't do anything else,
basically.
351
00:23:12,390 --> 00:23:14,458
All of a sudden
Pakistan was open.
352
00:23:15,694 --> 00:23:19,856
So going to K2 was a chance
for the business to survive.
353
00:23:19,958 --> 00:23:21,993
[rhythmic
instrumental music playing]
354
00:23:26,232 --> 00:23:31,802
I saw on Facebook
that Seven Summits agency
from Nepal,
355
00:23:31,904 --> 00:23:34,907
they're doing
K2 winter expedition.
356
00:23:36,777 --> 00:23:40,179
I wrote to them,
"What's the price?"
357
00:23:40,281 --> 00:23:44,785
They immediately wrote,
"Oh, we are starting
doing your visa now."
358
00:23:45,253 --> 00:23:47,821
[in Polish]
359
00:23:52,328 --> 00:23:53,826
[speaks Polish, laughs]
360
00:23:53,928 --> 00:23:55,966
[Arnold] To be honest,
it would have been better
361
00:23:56,068 --> 00:24:00,501
if there's only 10 people
on the mountain, instead of,
like, 60 people in total.
362
00:24:00,603 --> 00:24:02,906
That's kind of crazy
for K2 winter.
363
00:24:03,008 --> 00:24:04,033
[camera bleeps]
364
00:24:04,635 --> 00:24:08,077
But the fun part about my job
is that people
come from everywhere.
365
00:24:08,179 --> 00:24:09,880
All different backgrounds.
366
00:24:10,516 --> 00:24:11,911
- [Arnold] Can be a housewife...
- [man] Hello!
367
00:24:12,013 --> 00:24:14,984
[Arnold] ...can be an athlete,
can be a business owner.
368
00:24:15,086 --> 00:24:16,016
[camera bleeps]
369
00:24:16,352 --> 00:24:18,284
[pulsing music playing]
370
00:24:18,586 --> 00:24:21,184
[Bernhard Lippert, in German]
371
00:24:49,680 --> 00:24:50,749
[mouse clicks]
372
00:24:50,851 --> 00:24:53,449
[dance music
plays through speaker]
373
00:24:53,552 --> 00:24:55,053
[laughter]
374
00:24:55,155 --> 00:24:57,759
[Elia] I was literally sitting
at home in my pajamas
375
00:24:57,861 --> 00:25:01,228
and I'm watching all these
people on social media,
376
00:25:01,330 --> 00:25:02,966
show up in Pakistan.
377
00:25:03,702 --> 00:25:06,398
Right,
it's a commercialized endeavor
at this point.
378
00:25:06,500 --> 00:25:07,899
[climber cheering]
379
00:25:08,002 --> 00:25:10,335
[Elia] This was
a fuck-up by Seven Summits,
380
00:25:10,704 --> 00:25:12,807
which Arnold was a part of.
381
00:25:13,773 --> 00:25:15,577
Because if you commercialize K2,
382
00:25:15,680 --> 00:25:17,741
the way you've commercialized
Mount Everest,
383
00:25:17,844 --> 00:25:19,713
bad things are going to happen.
384
00:25:19,982 --> 00:25:22,645
And that's in the summertime.
Let alone the winter.
385
00:25:22,747 --> 00:25:23,915
[dance music plays]
386
00:25:24,017 --> 00:25:27,085
[JP] This is how
we're doing the expedition.
387
00:25:29,120 --> 00:25:33,762
[music and laughter
continue faintly]
388
00:25:49,375 --> 00:25:50,581
Ah.
389
00:25:53,216 --> 00:25:54,618
[in Icelandic]
390
00:26:03,558 --> 00:26:05,193
[boots crunching in snow]
391
00:26:05,495 --> 00:26:07,598
[Lina] John was disappointed.
392
00:26:08,633 --> 00:26:11,697
It's, like,
a really difficult expedition.
393
00:26:11,799 --> 00:26:15,298
So, he had hoped
he would be alone.
394
00:26:17,376 --> 00:26:19,841
But with
all the other climbers...
395
00:26:21,876 --> 00:26:24,681
the expedition
was totally different.
396
00:26:26,680 --> 00:26:28,619
Now it was a competition.
397
00:26:29,185 --> 00:26:30,082
And...
398
00:26:31,556 --> 00:26:35,626
he wanted to conquer it
as much as them.
399
00:26:36,821 --> 00:26:39,355
[John, in Icelandic]
400
00:26:59,084 --> 00:27:00,882
[sniffles]
401
00:27:03,751 --> 00:27:05,854
[tents rattling in the wind]
402
00:27:06,521 --> 00:27:07,889
[Lina, over phone]
403
00:27:08,622 --> 00:27:10,390
[John, in Icelandic]
404
00:27:10,492 --> 00:27:12,322
[Lina, in Icelandic]
405
00:27:12,690 --> 00:27:14,357
[John]
406
00:27:14,692 --> 00:27:15,930
[Lina]
407
00:27:18,234 --> 00:27:20,497
[John]
408
00:27:20,599 --> 00:27:21,432
[Lina]
409
00:27:21,534 --> 00:27:24,235
[John]
410
00:27:25,639 --> 00:27:28,679
[Lina, on recording]
411
00:27:35,350 --> 00:27:39,450
[John]
412
00:27:39,552 --> 00:27:42,088
[Lina]
413
00:27:42,522 --> 00:27:44,191
[John]
414
00:27:44,293 --> 00:27:45,161
[Lina]
415
00:27:45,263 --> 00:27:46,589
- [John]
- [Lina]
416
00:27:46,691 --> 00:27:49,095
[John]
417
00:28:00,777 --> 00:28:01,675
[Colin]
Traditionally on the route,
418
00:28:01,844 --> 00:28:03,772
there are five camps
above base camp.
419
00:28:04,442 --> 00:28:05,875
[Colin, in video]
Camp one's roughly there.
420
00:28:05,977 --> 00:28:08,483
Camp two, up into there.
421
00:28:08,585 --> 00:28:10,820
Camp three, back in there.
422
00:28:10,922 --> 00:28:13,691
Then, backside of that,
Bottleneck to the summit.
423
00:28:14,723 --> 00:28:16,122
[Colin] And that is very common.
424
00:28:16,491 --> 00:28:19,292
You see the same thing
on most of the fourteen
8,000-meter peaks.
425
00:28:19,395 --> 00:28:22,760
Because most of these mountains
can't be climbed
in a single push.
426
00:28:22,862 --> 00:28:24,062
[Colin] Climbing up!
427
00:28:24,632 --> 00:28:26,166
[Colin] You actually need
to climb up and down
the mountain a few times.
428
00:28:26,268 --> 00:28:28,801
You need to climb up
to camp one, camp two,
camp three,
429
00:28:29,537 --> 00:28:32,905
stock your camps
with gear and supplies
as well as get acclimatized.
430
00:28:33,007 --> 00:28:34,771
So, get your body
used to the thin air.
431
00:28:35,306 --> 00:28:37,715
And then you just go back
to base camp.
432
00:28:38,249 --> 00:28:39,981
[man, in Polish]
433
00:28:40,416 --> 00:28:42,315
[in Polish]
434
00:28:42,418 --> 00:28:44,216
[chuckles]
435
00:28:45,520 --> 00:28:47,318
[chuckles]
436
00:28:50,195 --> 00:28:53,429
[Colin] One of the main things
was how is the rope
gonna be fixed
437
00:28:53,531 --> 00:28:54,897
to the top of that mountain?
438
00:28:57,030 --> 00:28:58,528
When we first got to base camp,
439
00:28:58,630 --> 00:29:01,001
John Snorri and Ali
had already been up
on the mountain,
440
00:29:01,103 --> 00:29:03,567
and they had already fixed
some ropes up there,
441
00:29:04,470 --> 00:29:09,208
but actually
no one had put ropes
above camp two.
442
00:29:09,743 --> 00:29:10,974
[exhales vocally]
443
00:29:11,076 --> 00:29:12,649
[Colin] And it became very clear
444
00:29:12,752 --> 00:29:15,181
this was such a dangerous
mountain to climb...
445
00:29:17,451 --> 00:29:19,818
that everyone was there
to try to get the first ascent,
446
00:29:19,920 --> 00:29:22,221
everyone was racing to be first,
447
00:29:24,163 --> 00:29:26,957
and everyone realized, actually,
the best case scenario
for safety,
448
00:29:27,059 --> 00:29:28,932
as well as potential success,
449
00:29:29,034 --> 00:29:31,395
was for us
to kind of all collude
and do this together.
450
00:29:32,803 --> 00:29:34,665
It was kind of
like the United Nations.
451
00:29:34,767 --> 00:29:38,138
And our plan
was to just all, you know,
climb this mountain as one.
452
00:29:42,707 --> 00:29:45,948
[Angela] I mean,
you should speak
to the Sherpas about that.
453
00:29:47,451 --> 00:29:48,350
[camera bleeps]
454
00:29:48,452 --> 00:29:49,553
[producer] Why?
455
00:29:50,022 --> 00:29:54,385
[Angela] Because no one
wants to be the bad guy, right?
456
00:29:55,956 --> 00:29:58,554
But the competition was there.
457
00:30:02,929 --> 00:30:06,397
[Gelje Sherpa, in Nepali]
458
00:30:32,863 --> 00:30:34,593
[in English]
Guys, this is, I think...
459
00:30:34,695 --> 00:30:35,833
[man coughs]
460
00:30:36,534 --> 00:30:39,196
...25-year-old Chivas.
461
00:30:39,631 --> 00:30:42,235
'Cause today is New Year's Eve,
we need to celebrate.
462
00:30:45,575 --> 00:30:48,971
[Gelje, in Nepali]
463
00:30:49,273 --> 00:30:52,710
[upbeat traditional music plays]
464
00:30:52,812 --> 00:30:55,215
[all laughing]
465
00:30:57,783 --> 00:31:00,484
[Gelje]
466
00:31:01,590 --> 00:31:04,422
[in Nepali]
467
00:31:09,163 --> 00:31:10,859
- [team laughs]
- [Nims speaking Nepali]
468
00:31:10,961 --> 00:31:15,265
[Angela] That night was
the beginning
of a change of strategy.
469
00:31:15,367 --> 00:31:19,075
Which became
much more nationalistic.
470
00:31:19,478 --> 00:31:21,137
[Nims speaking Nepali]
471
00:31:21,239 --> 00:31:22,237
[Angela] What I didn't know
472
00:31:22,340 --> 00:31:24,715
was that
the expedition co-leader
473
00:31:24,817 --> 00:31:26,642
of the Seven Summit Trek team
was there.
474
00:31:28,349 --> 00:31:31,152
[Arnold] I work for a company
owned by Sherpas.
475
00:31:32,824 --> 00:31:34,758
Sherpas were really
walking around
476
00:31:34,860 --> 00:31:37,761
barefooted at nothing,
like 20 years ago.
477
00:31:37,996 --> 00:31:41,628
And they saw tourists,
and they knew it was smart
478
00:31:41,730 --> 00:31:42,931
to become a climber,
479
00:31:43,100 --> 00:31:45,196
and they all worked
their way up from a porter.
480
00:31:45,331 --> 00:31:47,666
I think Nepalese
should take this summit.
481
00:31:47,768 --> 00:31:48,767
[man] Yeah.
482
00:31:48,869 --> 00:31:49,937
Don't wait too long.
483
00:31:50,039 --> 00:31:51,775
Because if you wait
one more week,
484
00:31:51,877 --> 00:31:54,603
then our team,
there are strong climbers,
485
00:31:54,705 --> 00:31:57,907
and they're gonna take it.
You guys should take it.
486
00:31:58,009 --> 00:31:59,044
The Nepalese
487
00:31:59,280 --> 00:32:00,682
- should take this summit.
- [man laughs]
488
00:32:00,785 --> 00:32:02,050
[Arnold]
So the Western climbers,
489
00:32:02,352 --> 00:32:04,586
might have been told
all the Sherpas
were there for them.
490
00:32:04,688 --> 00:32:05,956
You know, to help them.
491
00:32:07,755 --> 00:32:12,957
But it would actually
have been sad,
if a guy who just paid money
492
00:32:13,059 --> 00:32:15,195
got to the top first.
493
00:32:15,631 --> 00:32:19,134
That's also my opinion,
even though I was leading
those people.
494
00:32:20,471 --> 00:32:24,571
[in Nepali]
495
00:32:24,673 --> 00:32:27,670
[in Nepali]
496
00:32:31,042 --> 00:32:34,714
[man, in Nepali]
497
00:32:34,816 --> 00:32:38,417
[Nims, in Nepali]
498
00:32:45,523 --> 00:32:47,024
[Nims, in English]
Happy New Year.
499
00:32:47,126 --> 00:32:48,498
[all] Happy New Year.
500
00:32:48,600 --> 00:32:50,561
[all speaking Nepali]
501
00:32:52,504 --> 00:32:57,471
[Gelje, in Nepali]
502
00:32:57,807 --> 00:32:59,702
[faint music, whooping]
503
00:33:22,032 --> 00:33:25,266
- [indistinct shouting]
- [applause]
504
00:33:33,137 --> 00:33:37,773
[wind roaring]
505
00:33:43,147 --> 00:33:49,155
A few days later,
they had a meeting,
the Nepalese and John and Ali,
506
00:33:49,257 --> 00:33:53,289
where they discussed
the summit plan.
507
00:33:53,791 --> 00:33:56,663
So John called me
and told me about this meeting.
508
00:33:56,865 --> 00:34:02,633
[Lina, in Icelandic]
509
00:34:03,067 --> 00:34:03,900
[John]
510
00:34:04,002 --> 00:34:05,242
[Lina]
511
00:34:05,344 --> 00:34:08,203
[John]
512
00:34:08,806 --> 00:34:11,048
[Lina, in English]
It was like a negotiation.
513
00:34:12,315 --> 00:34:18,852
John and Ali had already
brought 700-meter rope up
514
00:34:19,655 --> 00:34:25,189
and it was agreed on
that the Nepalese
would take it and use it.
515
00:34:25,892 --> 00:34:31,395
So in return
they would go all together
to achieve the summit.
516
00:34:31,497 --> 00:34:34,533
[upbeat Shina song
plays on speaker]
517
00:34:35,365 --> 00:34:37,800
[John, in Icelandic]
518
00:34:46,310 --> 00:34:47,845
[Lina, in Icelandic]
519
00:34:48,047 --> 00:34:50,648
[song continues]
520
00:34:51,953 --> 00:34:54,718
[Ali sings along]
521
00:34:56,825 --> 00:34:58,425
[all cheer]
522
00:35:01,325 --> 00:35:03,430
[indistinct chatter]
523
00:35:06,197 --> 00:35:10,767
[in Nepali]
524
00:35:37,367 --> 00:35:38,861
[in English] And we're done.
Thank you, brother.
525
00:35:43,103 --> 00:35:47,137
[Lina, in English]
So the weather window
they agreed on with the Sherpas
526
00:35:47,239 --> 00:35:49,773
was around the 16th.
527
00:35:49,875 --> 00:35:51,614
- [Ali, in English]
Sunny there, John?
- Yeah.
528
00:35:51,716 --> 00:35:53,414
A-hay! Lemon juice.
529
00:35:58,018 --> 00:36:03,758
[Lina] So, in the morning,
they were waiting
for the call from Nims
530
00:36:03,860 --> 00:36:05,327
to summit together.
531
00:36:09,661 --> 00:36:10,826
[Colin]
On the radios in base camp
532
00:36:10,928 --> 00:36:13,066
everyone's like,
"Well, where are the Nepalese?"
533
00:36:13,168 --> 00:36:14,534
And at first they were like,
534
00:36:14,969 --> 00:36:17,305
"Oh, yeah, we're just
bringing gear up there.
You know, we'll see.
535
00:36:17,407 --> 00:36:19,869
Tomorrow looks like
it's gonna be bad weather."
536
00:36:19,971 --> 00:36:23,312
Just kind of this friendly,
you know, camaraderie.
537
00:36:25,316 --> 00:36:26,946
[Sajid, in English]
Camp 2 for base camp, over.
538
00:36:27,048 --> 00:36:32,249
[Colin] But later on
we noticed that Nims
and the Nepalese had gone quiet.
539
00:36:32,351 --> 00:36:34,187
Complete radio silence.
540
00:36:34,289 --> 00:36:36,358
- Camp 2, over.
- [John coughs]
541
00:36:37,321 --> 00:36:39,023
Camp 2, over.
542
00:36:39,125 --> 00:36:41,663
In the past,
they had been pretty open,
talking on those channels.
543
00:36:41,765 --> 00:36:45,430
Then all of a sudden,
they kind of disappeared
from those channels.
544
00:36:45,532 --> 00:36:47,700
So it was kind of
this question mark of,
545
00:36:48,269 --> 00:36:50,065
"Are those guys going for it?"
546
00:36:50,601 --> 00:36:52,671
Camp 2, base camp, base camp.
547
00:36:53,339 --> 00:36:55,443
[tense music playing]
548
00:37:02,412 --> 00:37:04,947
[Sajid, in Urdu]
549
00:37:37,916 --> 00:37:40,818
[Lina] The Nepalese
had started the summit,
550
00:37:41,652 --> 00:37:44,421
but it was too late for John.
551
00:37:44,523 --> 00:37:46,758
They already missed that window.
552
00:37:55,999 --> 00:37:58,935
John just couldn't believe
it was happening.
553
00:37:59,810 --> 00:38:01,377
He was angry,
554
00:38:02,511 --> 00:38:05,943
because he thought
they had an agreement.
555
00:38:06,045 --> 00:38:07,044
Wow.
556
00:38:07,246 --> 00:38:09,484
[in English]
557
00:38:14,991 --> 00:38:16,458
[Lina] It was over.
558
00:38:17,925 --> 00:38:23,294
The Nepalese wanted to take
the summit for their nation.
559
00:38:23,396 --> 00:38:26,765
It was clearly the plan.
560
00:38:31,007 --> 00:38:32,034
[John clears throat]
561
00:38:32,677 --> 00:38:37,809
[in Urdu]
562
00:38:48,057 --> 00:38:49,986
[wind blustering]
563
00:38:51,761 --> 00:38:55,530
[Colin] Later that night,
the Nepalese
started coming down.
564
00:38:58,965 --> 00:39:02,734
[Tamara] I felt really sorry
for Ali and for John,
565
00:39:02,836 --> 00:39:09,910
because they fixed the ropes
and so they expected
566
00:39:10,012 --> 00:39:16,478
to be part of this summit push,
and, uh, they were
just excluded.
567
00:39:16,580 --> 00:39:17,849
[man] Congrats.
568
00:39:20,256 --> 00:39:23,555
[Colin] Many of those guys are,
you know, some of the best
climbers in the world.
569
00:39:23,657 --> 00:39:25,522
And they have
a genetic disposition
570
00:39:25,657 --> 00:39:29,158
because they've, you know,
for generations and generations
lived at high altitude,
571
00:39:29,260 --> 00:39:32,402
to be really strong
in the Himalayas,
which is incredible.
572
00:39:32,969 --> 00:39:34,668
[climber coughs]
573
00:39:34,770 --> 00:39:38,641
[Colin] But Ali and John
had been, kind of, left behind.
574
00:39:39,544 --> 00:39:41,239
And of course there was
a part of me that was like,
575
00:39:41,341 --> 00:39:44,480
"It would've been awesome if
we could've all been up there
together."
576
00:39:46,114 --> 00:39:49,518
[in Nepali]
577
00:39:58,325 --> 00:39:59,121
[camera bleeps]
578
00:40:17,047 --> 00:40:18,074
[camera bleeps]
579
00:40:26,485 --> 00:40:27,589
[camera bleeps]
580
00:40:30,161 --> 00:40:31,526
[Sandro] Really the problem is
581
00:40:31,628 --> 00:40:33,692
that normally the Nepalis
are friendly and helpful
582
00:40:33,794 --> 00:40:36,128
and help the Westerners
get to the top.
583
00:40:36,230 --> 00:40:39,568
But this was really
an expedition where
there was none of that.
584
00:40:40,400 --> 00:40:41,701
And there was no way
585
00:40:42,070 --> 00:40:45,772
that Nims was gonna agree
to taking any Westerners
to the summit.
586
00:40:46,538 --> 00:40:47,675
[camera clicks]
587
00:40:48,509 --> 00:40:50,038
Like, when we were in base camp,
588
00:40:50,141 --> 00:40:53,314
Nims had told me
to pack for five days' climbing,
589
00:40:53,416 --> 00:40:55,452
which would have included
a summit.
590
00:40:56,915 --> 00:40:59,551
But then,
once we got to camp three,
591
00:40:59,653 --> 00:41:01,122
Nims said,
"You need to go down."
592
00:41:01,224 --> 00:41:03,585
So I was so pissed off.
593
00:41:03,687 --> 00:41:05,792
[film reel whirring]
594
00:41:07,157 --> 00:41:09,866
That said,
in all these old climbing films
595
00:41:09,968 --> 00:41:13,367
it's always the Westerners
that turn the Sherpa around
at camp four,
596
00:41:13,469 --> 00:41:15,166
so it's a glorious
Western summit
597
00:41:15,269 --> 00:41:18,572
and no one needs to mention
the Sherpa working for them.
So...
598
00:41:19,007 --> 00:41:22,611
Part of me thinks
that Nims just did
a reverse twist of that.
599
00:41:26,347 --> 00:41:30,847
All 8,000-meter mountains
are climbed thanks to
the work of the Sherpa.
600
00:41:31,216 --> 00:41:34,017
But in terms of recognition
they were always last.
601
00:41:34,119 --> 00:41:35,957
[Colin] Congratulations, man.
Well deserved.
602
00:41:36,059 --> 00:41:39,722
[Sandro]
I met this U.S. Marine once,
who gave me this Bible quote,
603
00:41:40,158 --> 00:41:43,896
"The first shall be last,
and the last first."
604
00:41:45,668 --> 00:41:46,863
I don't know
who came up with that saying,
605
00:41:46,965 --> 00:41:49,872
but it's an absolute banger.
[laughs]
606
00:41:49,974 --> 00:41:52,971
[wind rushing]
607
00:42:03,053 --> 00:42:07,187
[Magdalena]
It was super hard for us
to be happy for the Sherpa.
608
00:42:07,623 --> 00:42:09,924
Because the next day
in the morning,
609
00:42:10,327 --> 00:42:14,560
me and my cameraman, Oswald,
610
00:42:14,662 --> 00:42:17,930
we were going down
from camp two,
611
00:42:20,471 --> 00:42:24,739
and that's when
the accident happened.
612
00:42:30,747 --> 00:42:33,648
At some point,
I heard some noise coming down.
613
00:42:33,750 --> 00:42:36,512
I thought, "This has to be,
like, a huge rock."
614
00:42:37,215 --> 00:42:40,820
Um, and I just grabbed,
the fastest I could,
615
00:42:40,922 --> 00:42:43,651
like, the GoPro that I had
in my internal pocket.
616
00:42:43,753 --> 00:42:44,954
In my down suit.
617
00:42:45,056 --> 00:42:50,065
- [wind battering]
- [rolling thuds]
618
00:42:50,167 --> 00:42:51,326
[camera bleeps]
619
00:42:53,071 --> 00:42:54,030
Somehow I'm happy
620
00:42:54,332 --> 00:42:57,237
that I didn't record the moment
when you see the body.
621
00:42:57,506 --> 00:42:59,101
But you can see that the gloves,
622
00:42:59,204 --> 00:43:02,040
mitten gloves
are still, like, falling down.
623
00:43:03,614 --> 00:43:05,109
- [Oswald] You saw
what happened?
- Huh?
624
00:43:05,211 --> 00:43:07,113
- [Oswald] You saw
what happened?
- I don't know.
625
00:43:07,215 --> 00:43:09,784
[Oswald] You will go down
to see what's happened.
Yes? Okay.
626
00:43:12,289 --> 00:43:14,690
I went after Juan Pablo.
627
00:43:15,588 --> 00:43:16,789
[camera bleeps]
628
00:43:17,425 --> 00:43:21,263
The closer I was getting,
I understood that there is
a person laying down
629
00:43:21,366 --> 00:43:23,993
um, on the floor, on the rocks.
630
00:43:24,095 --> 00:43:27,763
And then Tamara said,
"It's Sergi."
631
00:43:27,865 --> 00:43:31,038
[cheering indistinctly]
632
00:43:31,140 --> 00:43:35,703
[Angela]
Sergi Mingote was perhaps
the most experienced climber
633
00:43:35,805 --> 00:43:37,475
on the mountain.
634
00:43:38,111 --> 00:43:43,147
He was climbing
with his friend,
Juan Pablo Mohr.
635
00:43:47,524 --> 00:43:49,919
[Tamara]
Normally mountaineers,
636
00:43:50,021 --> 00:43:51,620
they're a little bit
more closed.
637
00:43:51,722 --> 00:43:53,223
A bit of ego.
638
00:43:55,199 --> 00:44:01,330
But with those guys,
I experienced completely
the opposite thing, you know.
639
00:44:04,271 --> 00:44:09,408
And especially Sergi
gave me this feeling of,
"I am safe."
640
00:44:09,510 --> 00:44:10,509
[camera clicks]
641
00:44:10,611 --> 00:44:12,715
[soft, slow notes playing]
642
00:44:21,423 --> 00:44:23,352
When he fell down...
643
00:44:25,094 --> 00:44:29,628
I was so under shock,
that my body
is just functioning.
644
00:44:29,730 --> 00:44:32,702
There is no emotion allowed.
645
00:44:34,167 --> 00:44:36,871
[Oswald] You know,
it's a super absurd situation.
646
00:44:38,575 --> 00:44:39,970
You have, like,
the body of Sergi
647
00:44:40,072 --> 00:44:43,042
just left there
in a sleeping bag.
648
00:44:44,981 --> 00:44:48,042
But then, like, you have
all these people
surrounding him,
649
00:44:48,144 --> 00:44:50,181
trying to do some recordings.
650
00:44:51,420 --> 00:44:55,491
[indistinct chatter]
651
00:44:55,593 --> 00:44:57,826
- [camera bleeps]
- [indistinct chatter]
652
00:45:00,230 --> 00:45:04,699
For me,
in this moment, I was thinking,
the first ascent is gone.
653
00:45:04,801 --> 00:45:07,667
Like, the "prize"
of being first is gone.
654
00:45:08,236 --> 00:45:11,303
And now Sergi, one of the most
experienced guys out there...
655
00:45:11,873 --> 00:45:13,710
No one really knows
what happened.
656
00:45:14,973 --> 00:45:17,109
Possibly he got hit by a rock.
657
00:45:18,281 --> 00:45:19,441
And he's dead.
658
00:45:21,715 --> 00:45:23,313
It's time to go home.
659
00:45:29,723 --> 00:45:34,190
[Arnold] When Sergi died,
I really felt like the odds
were not in our favor.
660
00:45:34,493 --> 00:45:39,230
And to continue this climb
was actually not a good idea.
661
00:45:41,101 --> 00:45:44,070
Especially
with all the novice climbers.
662
00:45:44,172 --> 00:45:47,236
Like, "Look, now
this experienced guy,
he fell down.
663
00:45:47,339 --> 00:45:49,504
What's gonna happen
to the rest?" You know?
664
00:45:55,382 --> 00:45:58,747
[Tamara] Later,
I was just sitting down
and I was crying.
665
00:45:58,849 --> 00:46:03,524
And in this moment I said,
"Okay, this expedition,
for me, is over.
666
00:46:03,626 --> 00:46:05,658
I just want to go home now."
667
00:46:06,394 --> 00:46:10,162
[Oswald] Yeah,
first thing tomorrow,
everyone was going home.
668
00:46:11,097 --> 00:46:13,132
The Nepali team
climbed the mountain.
669
00:46:13,600 --> 00:46:15,037
Sergi died.
670
00:46:15,673 --> 00:46:17,268
It was, like,
no point to be here.
671
00:46:31,421 --> 00:46:35,118
[Colin] But then
the next thing that happens
is these helicopters arrive,
672
00:46:35,220 --> 00:46:39,120
full of high-ranking
military officers.
673
00:46:39,689 --> 00:46:43,193
The Nepalese have successfully
summited K2 in winter,
674
00:46:43,296 --> 00:46:47,102
and the Pakistani military
came to celebrate.
675
00:46:47,438 --> 00:46:50,972
[conversing indistinctly]
676
00:46:52,702 --> 00:46:55,539
[Tamara] The military who came
with the helicopter said,
677
00:46:55,641 --> 00:46:58,473
"How is this possible
that the Nepali
are going to the top,
678
00:46:58,575 --> 00:47:02,517
and Ali and John are here
already one month before,
679
00:47:02,619 --> 00:47:06,084
and now they have no summit?"
680
00:47:06,186 --> 00:47:10,189
So it was, like,
the hero of Pakistan failed.
681
00:47:14,231 --> 00:47:20,001
And for me immediately... bam!
I saw Ali completely different.
682
00:47:21,539 --> 00:47:23,433
[wind buffeting microphone]
683
00:47:25,435 --> 00:47:28,711
He was a bit nervous
of this tension,
684
00:47:28,813 --> 00:47:33,080
so I think he was not sure
what to do now.
685
00:47:42,792 --> 00:47:45,290
[sorrowful piano music playing]
686
00:47:54,800 --> 00:47:59,403
[Sajid, in Urdu]
687
00:48:54,664 --> 00:48:56,526
[helicopter whirring]
688
00:48:58,263 --> 00:49:00,528
[dramatic,
pulsing music playing]
689
00:49:00,631 --> 00:49:02,738
The rule that I set
for myself, essentially
690
00:49:02,840 --> 00:49:04,705
was that if I was gonna
take on K2
691
00:49:04,808 --> 00:49:06,206
I wanted to find
the right story.
692
00:49:08,208 --> 00:49:11,006
And even though
Nims had summited,
693
00:49:11,541 --> 00:49:14,777
I'm not gonna lie to you,
on K2 in winter,
694
00:49:14,879 --> 00:49:18,218
you'd be a fool to think
that nothing else
is going to happen.
695
00:49:19,952 --> 00:49:23,492
And the story
that I wanted to tell
was the story of the underdogs.
696
00:49:23,594 --> 00:49:27,623
I'd been sitting at home
trying to figure out how to get
myself over to Pakistan.
697
00:49:29,565 --> 00:49:30,591
And, in the end,
698
00:49:30,693 --> 00:49:33,363
the way that I pitched this
to the military,
699
00:49:33,465 --> 00:49:35,999
was that I wanna tell
a Pakistani story.
700
00:49:36,101 --> 00:49:41,336
We have your national
hero mountaineer, and his son,
who are on this mountain.
701
00:49:41,438 --> 00:49:45,040
And I wanna help
raise their star.
702
00:49:45,142 --> 00:49:47,581
[music continues]
703
00:49:48,518 --> 00:49:52,153
And the military,
the government,
were very interested in that.
704
00:49:54,388 --> 00:49:56,993
A lot of people
are extremely poor in Pakistan.
705
00:49:59,993 --> 00:50:02,130
Tourism is a way out.
706
00:50:06,363 --> 00:50:08,401
So, from their perspective,
707
00:50:08,503 --> 00:50:12,536
Ali's story was an opportunity
to hopefully inspire people
708
00:50:12,638 --> 00:50:15,044
to come to Pakistan
and see it all for themselves.
709
00:50:18,545 --> 00:50:21,815
[Arnold] The pressure
became really high for Ali.
710
00:50:21,918 --> 00:50:23,680
From all sides. From the media,
711
00:50:23,782 --> 00:50:27,016
from the army that shows up,
the filming guy that shows up.
712
00:50:28,019 --> 00:50:31,687
I don't know exactly
what they told him,
but it was very clear.
713
00:50:33,059 --> 00:50:34,856
Ali simply had to summit.
714
00:50:34,958 --> 00:50:38,599
To show that the Pakistanis
are as good as the Sherpas.
715
00:50:38,701 --> 00:50:42,466
[Elia] Do you feel like
maybe you're very close
to your dream right now?
716
00:50:42,568 --> 00:50:46,939
Inshallah, yeah.
We are very strong this year.
717
00:50:47,041 --> 00:50:48,737
We are very well acclimatized.
718
00:50:48,839 --> 00:50:53,947
And John also very strong
with us, and we do our best.
719
00:50:54,483 --> 00:51:00,920
There was so much pressure,
from the eyes, from everybody.
720
00:51:01,556 --> 00:51:05,094
Watching the team,
if they're gonna
finish this or not.
721
00:51:06,026 --> 00:51:07,288
[Elia] And go for it.
722
00:51:08,158 --> 00:51:12,266
[Lina] I said to him,
"It's almost over,
you will come home soon."
723
00:51:13,064 --> 00:51:14,500
But he decided
724
00:51:14,602 --> 00:51:20,207
he could be the first Icelander
to climb K2 in wintertime.
725
00:51:20,710 --> 00:51:26,340
So there was still a chance
to make mountaineering history,
actually.
726
00:51:26,442 --> 00:51:29,217
[pulsing music continues]
727
00:51:32,916 --> 00:51:35,550
[in English]
Now, what do you think
about the camp?
728
00:51:35,652 --> 00:51:37,426
- [Ali chuckles]
- Getting empty, huh?
729
00:51:37,528 --> 00:51:38,287
Yeah, it is.
730
00:51:38,490 --> 00:51:39,753
How many people
left this morning?
731
00:51:39,856 --> 00:51:43,995
This morning maybe 14,
15 people left, yeah.
732
00:51:44,097 --> 00:51:45,527
[John] Yeah. Uy-uy-uy.
733
00:51:45,629 --> 00:51:47,496
Inshallah,
we also go with heli.
734
00:51:47,598 --> 00:51:50,003
No, no, no.
When we-- After we summit,
735
00:51:50,105 --> 00:51:51,532
- we stay here celebrate.
- Yes.
736
00:51:51,634 --> 00:51:53,271
- In base camp.
- In base camp.
737
00:51:53,373 --> 00:51:54,569
[Colin] Ali and John
had been there
738
00:51:54,671 --> 00:51:57,010
for a couple months
at this point.
739
00:51:57,312 --> 00:51:59,842
And so they decide,
"We're going for it."
740
00:51:59,944 --> 00:52:03,411
- [distant rumbling]
- The rest of us
had planned to leave.
741
00:52:03,513 --> 00:52:05,220
You see avalanche over there?
742
00:52:06,084 --> 00:52:07,253
[Ali] Yeah.
743
00:52:07,522 --> 00:52:09,356
But when one person decides
they're going for it,
744
00:52:09,458 --> 00:52:12,194
there becomes this, sort of,
questioning of groupthink.
745
00:52:14,331 --> 00:52:16,528
And I remember sitting
with JP and Tamara, being like,
746
00:52:17,761 --> 00:52:21,636
"Is this expedition over,
or do we stay?"
747
00:52:21,738 --> 00:52:22,534
[camera clicks]
748
00:52:24,340 --> 00:52:27,237
[Tamara] In the days
after Sergi's accident,
749
00:52:27,339 --> 00:52:30,437
I spoke with JP about this.
750
00:52:30,539 --> 00:52:33,210
Of course he was very sad.
751
00:52:34,179 --> 00:52:38,116
But I said, "Okay,
mountaineering is a discovery
not only of the mountain,
752
00:52:38,218 --> 00:52:40,354
it is a discovery of yourself.
753
00:52:41,987 --> 00:52:45,821
There is no better place
to work on these feelings
than here."
754
00:52:47,930 --> 00:52:49,264
[Oswald] Somehow I felt
755
00:52:49,433 --> 00:52:51,994
like Juan Pablo and Tamara were,
like, the most experienced.
756
00:52:52,097 --> 00:52:55,263
And they were,
like, important persons
to shape also my opinion.
757
00:52:55,365 --> 00:52:56,502
[camera clicks]
758
00:52:58,609 --> 00:53:03,938
And when they told me
we can continue,
I felt, "Okay, I'm just Oswald."
759
00:53:04,040 --> 00:53:07,382
Like, I'm a guy that was there
just to film Magdalena.
760
00:53:07,484 --> 00:53:10,249
Like, I wasn't, like, a guy
that climbed eight-thousanders,
761
00:53:10,351 --> 00:53:13,321
that dealt with death
so many times.
762
00:53:15,818 --> 00:53:18,092
[Arnold] A few days
after Sergi died,
763
00:53:18,194 --> 00:53:20,289
the whole atmosphere
changed again.
764
00:53:21,259 --> 00:53:26,367
Most of the climbers
somehow convinced themselves
to stay on the mountain.
765
00:53:27,832 --> 00:53:31,504
I decided I'm just gonna do
some damage control.
766
00:53:31,606 --> 00:53:34,870
I hope nobody makes a mistake,
but this is madness.
767
00:53:42,546 --> 00:53:44,784
Hello, Jan. This is John Snorri.
768
00:53:45,153 --> 00:53:47,988
[indistinct voice over phone]
769
00:53:48,090 --> 00:53:49,552
[Angela]
Then there came news
770
00:53:49,654 --> 00:53:53,394
of another
possible summit window.
771
00:53:55,332 --> 00:53:57,296
[John] Do you have, like,
a timetable of the wind,
772
00:53:57,398 --> 00:54:00,698
when the wind
will start to slow down?
773
00:54:02,269 --> 00:54:04,565
I understand that, but I'm try--
774
00:54:04,667 --> 00:54:06,808
[indistinct voice over phone]
775
00:54:06,910 --> 00:54:08,541
I am trying to understand.
776
00:54:09,639 --> 00:54:11,143
Yeah, you don't understand me.
777
00:54:11,245 --> 00:54:14,145
[indistinct voice over phone]
778
00:54:14,247 --> 00:54:15,978
Uh, Jan, could you se--
779
00:54:16,080 --> 00:54:19,420
- [indistinct voice over phone]
- Don't speak any English.
780
00:54:21,217 --> 00:54:25,591
Okay, Jan. I wait--
You send me now.
You send me now. Okay?
781
00:54:26,458 --> 00:54:27,993
- Bye-bye.
- [phone beeps]
782
00:54:28,295 --> 00:54:30,664
Oof, he don't speak any English.
783
00:54:30,766 --> 00:54:31,933
Stuck.
784
00:54:32,035 --> 00:54:33,434
[John] This is short window.
785
00:54:36,005 --> 00:54:37,267
But we're gonna use it.
786
00:54:37,369 --> 00:54:39,103
Because we are-- We can.
787
00:54:39,205 --> 00:54:41,074
We can. Mm-hmm.
788
00:54:41,177 --> 00:54:42,742
If we couldn't, I would say no.
789
00:54:42,844 --> 00:54:47,316
But we can use it.
And we will try to use it.
We will use it.
790
00:54:48,282 --> 00:54:49,817
[climber] I might even use it.
791
00:54:49,919 --> 00:54:50,913
Yeah, yeah. Yeah.
792
00:54:52,582 --> 00:54:54,686
I think this is our shot.
793
00:54:57,389 --> 00:54:58,955
- Very good.
- Yeah.
794
00:54:59,290 --> 00:55:00,428
[smacks lips]
795
00:55:01,226 --> 00:55:02,397
Excellent.
796
00:55:03,767 --> 00:55:04,696
[Ali] Mm-hmm.
797
00:55:05,668 --> 00:55:06,632
Yes.
798
00:55:13,536 --> 00:55:15,641
[indistinct chatter]
799
00:55:36,463 --> 00:55:37,826
[Arnold]
This window looks short,
800
00:55:37,929 --> 00:55:40,698
but I guess
that's the way it is in winter.
801
00:55:40,800 --> 00:55:43,938
And I'd like to remind everybody
on the timings.
802
00:55:44,040 --> 00:55:45,574
It's for your own safety.
803
00:55:45,809 --> 00:55:50,607
So I think I told you guys
six and a half hours roughly
to camp one.
804
00:55:50,709 --> 00:55:53,914
Uh, five hours
from camp one to two.
805
00:55:54,016 --> 00:55:57,716
So I give that speech
in basecamp the night before
everybody sets off.
806
00:55:57,818 --> 00:56:01,687
I tell them the weather window
is pretty marginal.
807
00:56:01,789 --> 00:56:05,526
And I tell people very clearly
the turnaround times.
808
00:56:06,260 --> 00:56:08,926
If somehow, on the way,
809
00:56:09,028 --> 00:56:11,761
you're not gonna
make the timings,
maybe it's not your day,
810
00:56:11,863 --> 00:56:13,996
and maybe you should
forget about the summit.
811
00:56:14,098 --> 00:56:17,166
[Arnold] Everybody knows
this is extremely dangerous.
812
00:56:17,869 --> 00:56:19,769
Whether you're gonna
take that risk or not
813
00:56:19,872 --> 00:56:23,445
in my opinion,
was up to the member, not to me.
814
00:56:26,177 --> 00:56:29,810
[Magdalena] The day we made
the decision we are going up,
815
00:56:30,579 --> 00:56:36,590
my Sherpa told me that before
the Nepali team
went to the summit,
816
00:56:38,055 --> 00:56:41,924
Nims was talking things
like cutting the ropes,
817
00:56:42,026 --> 00:56:46,061
so that nobody could follow them
and do the summit.
818
00:56:47,400 --> 00:56:49,133
I didn't say anything
819
00:56:49,235 --> 00:56:56,173
because I could not
imagine people who are
really able to do that.
820
00:56:56,275 --> 00:56:58,447
[wind whistling]
821
00:57:00,284 --> 00:57:03,182
But, at the same time,
I know Nims.
822
00:57:03,618 --> 00:57:08,721
I know how he behaves,
and what he shows.
823
00:57:10,153 --> 00:57:15,360
Don't judge him,
or anybody, from social media,
824
00:57:15,462 --> 00:57:18,426
because this is just a creation.
825
00:57:18,528 --> 00:57:20,667
[wind howling]
826
00:57:27,675 --> 00:57:29,643
- [climber] Nice morning.
- [John] Oh, yeah.
827
00:57:32,181 --> 00:57:33,446
[John] See you up there.
828
00:57:33,548 --> 00:57:35,283
See you up there, brother.
Take care.
829
00:57:35,385 --> 00:57:37,385
[John] Take care.
Be careful of the rocks.
830
00:57:37,487 --> 00:57:38,847
[Bernhard]
I think you're on the mountain.
831
00:57:38,949 --> 00:57:40,252
[John] Yeah,
see you on the mountain.
832
00:57:40,354 --> 00:57:43,525
[ominous music playing]
833
00:57:46,660 --> 00:57:48,358
[Colin]
It's all gotten very real.
834
00:57:48,460 --> 00:57:53,095
Like, we're actually attempting
a real summit push
on K2 in the winter.
835
00:57:55,133 --> 00:57:58,701
JP and Tamara had decided,
"Hey, let's climb together."
836
00:57:59,203 --> 00:58:01,643
You know,
I was starting to notice
the sort of inkling
837
00:58:01,745 --> 00:58:04,678
of a romantic something
happening between
the two of them.
838
00:58:04,780 --> 00:58:07,147
Although it wasn't, you know,
super openly discussed
839
00:58:07,249 --> 00:58:10,519
it was pretty obvious
that they at least had
a growing love for each other.
840
00:58:12,282 --> 00:58:15,823
When I decided to start
with JP towards the summit,
841
00:58:15,926 --> 00:58:20,289
I felt really happy
that I was in the team with
him and so on.
842
00:58:20,391 --> 00:58:25,166
But then he was always in front
and I think he was a bit angry.
843
00:58:25,268 --> 00:58:27,228
Because of my pace, let's say.
844
00:58:30,601 --> 00:58:31,967
I understood that,
845
00:58:32,070 --> 00:58:36,204
but then at the same time
I was asking myself
846
00:58:36,306 --> 00:58:40,375
why I needed to fall in love.
Why all this, you know?
847
00:58:40,577 --> 00:58:42,815
[in Italian]
848
00:58:43,349 --> 00:58:45,587
[in English]
849
00:58:49,189 --> 00:58:50,053
[laughs]
850
00:58:52,522 --> 00:58:54,189
[Tamara]
851
00:58:58,032 --> 00:58:59,766
[JP]
852
00:59:01,666 --> 00:59:06,872
[Magdalena] It's hard going on
that kind of expedition,
because it's a pressure.
853
00:59:09,809 --> 00:59:13,541
And now the pressure
was even bigger.
854
00:59:14,143 --> 00:59:18,085
But that night,
I was really so weak.
855
00:59:18,354 --> 00:59:21,350
So, yeah, sickness stopped me.
856
00:59:21,452 --> 00:59:22,788
[coughs]
857
00:59:22,890 --> 00:59:27,024
But probably it saved
my life too. [wry chuckle]
858
00:59:29,692 --> 00:59:31,600
[wind howling]
859
00:59:32,969 --> 00:59:35,366
[Colin] At that point,
none of us had been
above camp two.
860
00:59:35,468 --> 00:59:39,302
And so this would be
the highest any of us
had been up on the mountain.
861
00:59:39,404 --> 00:59:40,573
[panting]
862
00:59:40,675 --> 00:59:42,474
- [Elia] Okay, Ali, John.
- [John] Yeah?
863
00:59:42,576 --> 00:59:44,211
[Elia] How are you guys doing?
864
00:59:44,847 --> 00:59:47,543
Inshallah, our plan
is go tomorrow, camp three.
865
00:59:47,645 --> 00:59:50,445
Like 7,200 meters.
866
00:59:50,981 --> 00:59:55,020
And we will see.
The summit push.
867
00:59:55,590 --> 00:59:56,787
- [Elia] Sajid?
- Yeah. Oh.
868
00:59:56,889 --> 00:59:59,620
- [Elia] Excited?
- Oh. Summit, yeah.
869
00:59:59,956 --> 01:00:02,059
K2 in winter. Very excited.
870
01:00:02,894 --> 01:00:04,561
- Yeah.
- [Elia] All right.
871
01:00:05,097 --> 01:00:07,428
[Colin] The route between
camp two and camp three,
872
01:00:07,530 --> 01:00:11,134
um, is the most technical,
challenging part of the route.
873
01:00:13,271 --> 01:00:15,474
You need to use, you know,
your crampons on rocks,
874
01:00:15,576 --> 01:00:17,074
which is just super awkward.
875
01:00:17,642 --> 01:00:19,375
With steep ice.
876
01:00:19,877 --> 01:00:22,376
It's blue ice so you need to be,
877
01:00:22,478 --> 01:00:25,486
the whole day,
on the front point
of the crampons.
878
01:00:25,588 --> 01:00:28,151
It's very difficult
for your body.
879
01:00:29,787 --> 01:00:34,359
[Colin] And you can't really
sit still for very long
or you're gonna freeze.
880
01:00:34,461 --> 01:00:36,061
[Elia strains] Fuck.
881
01:00:36,163 --> 01:00:39,229
There's been, you know,
all sorts of stories of,
you know,
882
01:00:39,331 --> 01:00:41,734
tents with no people inside
getting blown off the mountain.
883
01:00:41,836 --> 01:00:43,832
Tents full of gear.
Tents with people inside
884
01:00:43,935 --> 01:00:45,503
getting blown off the mountain.
885
01:00:45,605 --> 01:00:47,772
[tense music playing]
886
01:00:48,341 --> 01:00:52,909
And Seven Summits were bringing
clients into that environment.
887
01:00:53,311 --> 01:00:55,915
Who are not qualified
to be there in the first place.
888
01:00:58,121 --> 01:01:00,656
[breathlessly]
889
01:01:11,001 --> 01:01:12,027
[panting]
890
01:01:12,797 --> 01:01:16,800
[Elia] I'm filming this
and I'm just thinking,
"This is really messed up."
891
01:01:16,902 --> 01:01:18,634
- Thank you, Elia.
- [Elia] Okay.
892
01:01:18,736 --> 01:01:21,041
Thank you so much.
893
01:01:21,577 --> 01:01:23,075
[Elia] I mean,
it was clear to me
894
01:01:23,177 --> 01:01:26,644
that none of these clients
were going to get to camp three.
895
01:01:26,746 --> 01:01:28,711
[snow beating on microphone]
896
01:01:28,813 --> 01:01:30,411
[ominous music playing]
897
01:01:31,588 --> 01:01:33,183
[Elia] That's like
going to the moon.
898
01:01:34,624 --> 01:01:36,620
I mean,
you're on the edge of space.
899
01:01:37,556 --> 01:01:40,855
You know, the blood doesn't flow
the way that it flows
at sea level.
900
01:01:40,957 --> 01:01:42,356
Everyone is compromised.
901
01:01:42,458 --> 01:01:44,766
You're almost in the death zone
at that point.
902
01:01:44,868 --> 01:01:47,766
Your body is deteriorating
faster than it can recover.
903
01:01:48,435 --> 01:01:51,903
Like, it's hard to walk,
it's hard to think,
it's hard to breathe,
904
01:01:52,006 --> 01:01:55,208
it's exhausting
just putting your boots on.
905
01:01:55,310 --> 01:01:57,240
[wind howling]
906
01:01:59,411 --> 01:02:02,080
I don't have footage of this,
because I just wasn't capable.
907
01:02:03,347 --> 01:02:06,084
So I set up a camp
further down the mountain,
908
01:02:07,149 --> 01:02:09,885
to allow myself to recover.
909
01:02:09,987 --> 01:02:13,689
[heavy breathing through pump]
910
01:02:13,791 --> 01:02:15,929
[winds whistling]
911
01:02:22,136 --> 01:02:24,637
We're here at camp three.
Um, it's been quite a day.
912
01:02:24,739 --> 01:02:27,674
[breathlessly]
Um, but, here now.
913
01:02:27,776 --> 01:02:30,677
Gonna get inside the tent
and warm up,
914
01:02:30,779 --> 01:02:32,440
and try to make
some good decisions.
915
01:02:33,946 --> 01:02:36,017
[climber 2] This is camp three!
916
01:02:36,553 --> 01:02:38,246
[Colin]
We arrived at camp three.
917
01:02:38,681 --> 01:02:42,384
We're in the tent,
JP's in his tent beside me
with Tamara,
918
01:02:42,486 --> 01:02:44,691
and then there's sort of
a clear moment which is like,
919
01:02:44,793 --> 01:02:47,891
"Hey, this is
the last night's sleep
920
01:02:47,993 --> 01:02:50,432
before this next
kind of mega push.
921
01:02:50,834 --> 01:02:53,160
I need to get as much rest
as I can in camp three."
922
01:02:53,529 --> 01:02:56,333
Change socks, melt snow
and turn it into water.
923
01:02:56,435 --> 01:02:59,368
Fill up
all of our water bottles,
and then continue on.
924
01:03:01,170 --> 01:03:03,009
And then the sun goes down.
925
01:03:03,111 --> 01:03:06,980
And, you know, it goes
from cold to ridiculously cold.
926
01:03:09,119 --> 01:03:14,581
The sun went away
and it was becoming
so cold in this shadow.
927
01:03:14,683 --> 01:03:18,927
[inhales through teeth]
And I felt that the whole--
928
01:03:19,029 --> 01:03:24,393
The cold is going into my shoes,
and it was like a monster.
929
01:03:25,936 --> 01:03:29,164
You need really to think,
"Okay, do I have everything?
930
01:03:29,266 --> 01:03:33,339
Are my shoes dry?
Are my boots okay?"
931
01:03:34,042 --> 01:03:40,948
It's the holy time
to prepare for the summit.
932
01:03:44,180 --> 01:03:46,119
[Colin] Ali and John arrive.
933
01:03:46,221 --> 01:03:48,356
And I'm thinking to myself,
"Well, we all made it up here.
934
01:03:48,458 --> 01:03:50,920
And everyone else must have
just gotten too late in the day
and realized,
935
01:03:51,022 --> 01:03:52,820
'Hey, I'm turning around.'"
936
01:03:53,089 --> 01:03:54,225
[climber 3 muttering]
937
01:03:56,431 --> 01:03:57,532
[zipper scrapes]
938
01:03:57,634 --> 01:03:59,229
[Colin] But then,
long after dark,
939
01:03:59,331 --> 01:04:02,467
I start hearing these voices
outside of my tent.
940
01:04:03,236 --> 01:04:05,332
And I'm like, "Oh, my God,
they're still climbing?"
941
01:04:05,434 --> 01:04:07,371
That whole
Seven Summits expedition,
942
01:04:07,473 --> 01:04:10,609
just took, how long,
12 hours or something
to get here?
943
01:04:10,711 --> 01:04:12,144
I couldn't believe it.
944
01:04:14,143 --> 01:04:16,280
[boots crunching in snow]
945
01:04:18,422 --> 01:04:20,383
[Bernhard, in German]
946
01:04:30,793 --> 01:04:31,966
Huh?
947
01:04:37,138 --> 01:04:38,740
[Colin] And then
I start hearing people saying,
948
01:04:38,942 --> 01:04:41,002
"No, you have the tent.
No, you have the tent.
949
01:04:41,104 --> 01:04:42,404
No, you have the tent."
950
01:04:42,840 --> 01:04:46,508
Like, they're all thinking
the other person
is carrying their tent.
951
01:04:48,110 --> 01:04:49,411
And all of a sudden,
952
01:04:49,580 --> 01:04:51,912
head after head after head
starts popping in my tent,
953
01:04:52,014 --> 01:04:55,484
"Colin, can I come inside?
Can I come inside?
Can I come inside?"
954
01:04:58,560 --> 01:04:59,761
[camera bleeps]
955
01:05:00,263 --> 01:05:02,623
- [indistinct voice over radio]
- This is a complete disaster.
956
01:05:04,631 --> 01:05:06,198
[coughing]
957
01:05:06,300 --> 01:05:10,672
[Elia] On the radio,
I start to hear Colin yelling.
958
01:05:11,008 --> 01:05:12,804
And I thought, "Well,
if this is what's unfolding,
959
01:05:12,906 --> 01:05:15,108
let me at least capture this."
960
01:05:17,744 --> 01:05:19,475
[Colin, over radio]
961
01:05:30,493 --> 01:05:32,255
[wind rattling tent]
962
01:05:32,358 --> 01:05:34,927
He was informing me
that there were no tents,
963
01:05:35,029 --> 01:05:37,464
and his tent
was the only tent there.
964
01:05:37,566 --> 01:05:41,763
And slowly
other people started to arrive,
and started filling up his tent.
965
01:05:42,032 --> 01:05:46,073
[Colin, over radio]
966
01:05:53,076 --> 01:05:54,675
[Arnold, over radio]
967
01:06:04,019 --> 01:06:07,892
Some people took
more than double the time
that I told them to take
968
01:06:07,994 --> 01:06:10,196
in the speech in base camp.
969
01:06:10,298 --> 01:06:13,999
And then on the way up,
we told people to turn around.
970
01:06:14,301 --> 01:06:16,733
And nobody listened,
everybody just kept going.
971
01:06:16,835 --> 01:06:22,670
So everybody ended up
in that camp three,
with not enough tents.
972
01:06:22,772 --> 01:06:25,908
And then, yeah,
what can you say,
there was chaos.
973
01:06:26,010 --> 01:06:28,242
[tent rattling]
974
01:06:29,079 --> 01:06:33,253
[Elia] Arnold says,
had people have respected
those turnaround times,
975
01:06:33,355 --> 01:06:35,751
that this wouldn't have been
an issue in the first place.
976
01:06:35,853 --> 01:06:38,221
And the problem
with that argument,
from my point of view,
977
01:06:38,323 --> 01:06:40,828
is that, well,
if that's your argument
978
01:06:40,930 --> 01:06:42,760
and that's
what you're relying on,
979
01:06:42,862 --> 01:06:45,229
what would've happened
if they would've made
their turnaround times?
980
01:06:45,331 --> 01:06:47,527
They would still be
in the same situation.
981
01:06:48,097 --> 01:06:51,665
So it's just, like,
admit that you made
a major mistake here.
982
01:06:51,767 --> 01:06:54,773
Admit that you should have
never allowed people
983
01:06:54,875 --> 01:06:56,374
to ascend to camp three,
984
01:06:56,476 --> 01:06:59,278
without having camp three
properly stocked and prepared.
985
01:06:59,712 --> 01:07:03,315
[Colin]
986
01:07:06,788 --> 01:07:08,152
At that point, they said,
987
01:07:08,254 --> 01:07:10,490
"Oh, well,
the Nepalese were up here,
988
01:07:10,592 --> 01:07:13,325
and they left some stuff
on the mountain.
Maybe there's a tent there."
989
01:07:13,427 --> 01:07:16,859
And I'm thinking, "It was
150 miles per hour up here.
990
01:07:16,961 --> 01:07:19,794
Like,
there's nothing left up here.
It's blown off the mountain."
991
01:07:19,996 --> 01:07:22,664
[Colin]
992
01:07:22,999 --> 01:07:24,468
[Arnold]
993
01:07:24,968 --> 01:07:26,734
[Colin]
994
01:07:27,410 --> 01:07:29,506
[Arnold]
995
01:07:32,008 --> 01:07:33,642
[Colin]
996
01:07:43,690 --> 01:07:47,796
[Arnold]
997
01:07:47,998 --> 01:07:49,590
[Colin] Like, I'm afraid,
I'm freaked out
998
01:07:49,692 --> 01:07:51,592
and I'm essentially
in the fetal position.
999
01:07:51,694 --> 01:07:53,931
Can't move my legs,
can't unzip my boots,
1000
01:07:54,033 --> 01:07:55,430
can't get to my backpack.
1001
01:07:55,532 --> 01:07:57,668
And it's just
a big sort of dog pile.
1002
01:07:57,870 --> 01:08:01,571
[over radio]
1003
01:08:09,177 --> 01:08:11,152
[Colin]
1004
01:08:13,819 --> 01:08:16,718
[Arnold]
1005
01:08:26,933 --> 01:08:29,104
[Sherpa, in Nepali]
1006
01:08:32,675 --> 01:08:33,801
[Arnold, in English]
1007
01:08:41,914 --> 01:08:44,548
[in German]
1008
01:08:49,119 --> 01:08:51,291
[wind roaring]
1009
01:08:52,925 --> 01:08:58,529
[Bernhard]
1010
01:09:04,433 --> 01:09:06,634
[ominous music playing]
1011
01:09:06,736 --> 01:09:08,405
[Tamara, in English]
JP's tent was so small
1012
01:09:08,507 --> 01:09:11,440
and then guys
from Seven Summits came in.
1013
01:09:11,909 --> 01:09:17,251
And of course I was just making
myself as small as possible.
1014
01:09:18,051 --> 01:09:20,421
Inside me, I already knew
1015
01:09:20,523 --> 01:09:24,855
that this is not the right time
for me to make a summit attempt.
1016
01:09:25,324 --> 01:09:27,358
But I didn't want
to say anything
1017
01:09:27,461 --> 01:09:30,831
because JP had decided
to go for the summit.
1018
01:09:30,933 --> 01:09:32,527
So, if I say something now,
1019
01:09:32,629 --> 01:09:35,530
then it's already negative
in his mind,
1020
01:09:35,632 --> 01:09:38,701
and maybe better
not to say anything.
1021
01:09:40,039 --> 01:09:42,177
[tent rattling]
1022
01:09:47,209 --> 01:09:50,845
[in Urdu]
1023
01:09:58,254 --> 01:09:59,821
[radio static]
1024
01:10:03,964 --> 01:10:04,760
[cameraman] Yeah.
1025
01:10:05,966 --> 01:10:07,167
[clears throat]
1026
01:10:07,469 --> 01:10:10,838
[Elia]
When you're at 8,000 meters
on a mountain,
1027
01:10:11,140 --> 01:10:12,700
you need to rest,
you need to melt snow,
1028
01:10:12,802 --> 01:10:15,840
you need to hydrate
and you need space.
1029
01:10:16,409 --> 01:10:20,542
So, three people
in a single tent works.
1030
01:10:20,644 --> 01:10:23,482
Six people
does not work whatsoever.
1031
01:10:25,486 --> 01:10:28,821
[Arnold] Ali and Snorri
were not part of my team,
1032
01:10:29,424 --> 01:10:32,694
but I still told them
it's not a good idea.
1033
01:10:33,563 --> 01:10:37,196
Everybody had a bad night,
because of the chaos
in camp three.
1034
01:10:37,298 --> 01:10:40,400
So we kind of
advised them not to go.
1035
01:10:44,604 --> 01:10:47,902
[Lina] I had a phone call
from John in camp three.
1036
01:10:49,543 --> 01:10:52,879
They had, like,
real trouble in their tents.
1037
01:10:53,815 --> 01:10:59,248
They didn't manage to rest,
they didn't manage
to rub their feet,
1038
01:10:59,350 --> 01:11:01,916
and just clear their mind.
1039
01:11:04,193 --> 01:11:07,589
I could not ask
what was going on,
1040
01:11:07,691 --> 01:11:10,290
because he didn't
wanna speak about it.
1041
01:11:10,392 --> 01:11:12,726
[wind howling]
1042
01:11:12,828 --> 01:11:16,165
But he said
he's going for the summit.
1043
01:11:16,267 --> 01:11:17,272
[camera bleeps]
1044
01:11:22,304 --> 01:11:26,609
Usually, he says,
"Goodbye, my love,"
or something like that.
1045
01:11:26,711 --> 01:11:29,977
But there, he didn't say it.
It was like...
1046
01:11:32,117 --> 01:11:33,453
just, "Bye."
1047
01:11:40,591 --> 01:11:42,660
- [camera bleeps]
- [silence]
1048
01:11:49,036 --> 01:11:51,570
[light wind blowing]
1049
01:12:01,347 --> 01:12:02,977
[Sherpa exclaims indistinctly]
1050
01:12:08,650 --> 01:12:10,754
[shovel digging into snow]
1051
01:12:12,822 --> 01:12:16,628
There it is.
The view from camp three.
1052
01:12:17,932 --> 01:12:19,367
My high spot.
1053
01:12:20,633 --> 01:12:22,704
Need to feel
that positive energy and...
1054
01:12:22,806 --> 01:12:23,531
Yeah, I also...
1055
01:12:23,634 --> 01:12:24,865
[Colin] Too much tension and...
1056
01:12:25,101 --> 01:12:27,605
- Yeah.
- [Colin] ...just not,
not, not right.
1057
01:12:27,707 --> 01:12:28,837
- Yeah.
- [Colin] Something's
not right, so...
1058
01:12:28,939 --> 01:12:31,611
- Yeah, I feel the same.
- [Colin] I had to say...
1059
01:12:32,147 --> 01:12:35,482
I-- My body felt good, you know.
1060
01:12:38,688 --> 01:12:39,681
But...
1061
01:12:40,050 --> 01:12:42,289
- That's it.
- [Tamara strains]
See you down there.
1062
01:12:42,391 --> 01:12:43,919
- [Colin]
You get down safe, okay?
- Yeah.
1063
01:12:44,021 --> 01:12:47,390
[Colin] In the night,
JP had gone for the summit,
1064
01:12:47,492 --> 01:12:50,428
with Sajid, John Snorri and Ali.
1065
01:12:50,530 --> 01:12:52,259
Everyone else
was coming back down.
1066
01:12:52,361 --> 01:12:53,434
Okay.
1067
01:12:56,168 --> 01:12:58,135
Time to go down!
1068
01:12:58,504 --> 01:12:59,636
- Hey, Colin.
- How are you?
1069
01:12:59,838 --> 01:13:02,472
- You've done the wise job. Huh?
- [climber] Colin.
1070
01:13:02,574 --> 01:13:04,275
- Just didn't feel right.
- No.
1071
01:13:04,577 --> 01:13:06,546
[Colin]
Hard to make that call, but...
1072
01:13:06,648 --> 01:13:10,011
[Noel Hanna] For me it wasn't,
it was just common sense.
1073
01:13:10,113 --> 01:13:12,948
[Colin] I said, "My checklist
of ten things I need
1074
01:13:13,050 --> 01:13:15,685
to safely make an ascent,
I don't have nine of them."
1075
01:13:15,788 --> 01:13:17,354
- [Noel] Yeah, common sense.
- [Colin] Fuck.
1076
01:13:17,456 --> 01:13:18,822
That's what I said to them.
1077
01:13:20,459 --> 01:13:21,490
[climber] This doesn't work.
1078
01:13:21,592 --> 01:13:23,192
[Colin] People were cooked.
1079
01:13:23,695 --> 01:13:25,531
No one had slept
or rested properly.
1080
01:13:25,633 --> 01:13:28,766
Bernhard had really bad
frostbite on his toes.
1081
01:13:32,008 --> 01:13:35,069
[Bernhard, in German]
1082
01:13:51,255 --> 01:13:52,086
[sighs]
1083
01:13:57,229 --> 01:13:59,863
[Elia]
Everybody was just trying to get
the hell off the mountain.
1084
01:14:01,203 --> 01:14:03,403
You can't make a single mistake,
1085
01:14:03,506 --> 01:14:06,237
but these guys
hadn't had tents to sleep in,
1086
01:14:06,339 --> 01:14:08,201
so they are very tired.
1087
01:14:09,441 --> 01:14:11,276
And so, I'm rappelling.
1088
01:14:11,378 --> 01:14:12,544
I got one hand on the rope,
1089
01:14:12,646 --> 01:14:15,111
I got the other hand
on the base of the rope.
1090
01:14:15,413 --> 01:14:17,511
And all of a sudden,
1091
01:14:18,080 --> 01:14:21,988
a body, a person,
flew right over my head
1092
01:14:22,090 --> 01:14:23,616
as I was descending.
1093
01:14:24,185 --> 01:14:28,595
And I turn around,
and just started yelling.
1094
01:14:30,798 --> 01:14:32,896
[Colin] I get down to camp one
and I'm finally, "Okay.
1095
01:14:32,998 --> 01:14:35,530
This is the last section,
this is where Sergi fell."
1096
01:14:36,099 --> 01:14:39,334
As I'm descending down,
I look down and I see,
1097
01:14:39,670 --> 01:14:42,774
unmistakably, Atanas' body,
1098
01:14:43,376 --> 01:14:44,875
sprawled on the snow.
1099
01:14:46,443 --> 01:14:48,610
And he's dead.
1100
01:14:49,313 --> 01:14:53,349
Atanas was a Bulgarian climber,
using the Seven Summits permit.
1101
01:14:53,451 --> 01:14:54,247
[camera bleeps]
1102
01:14:56,856 --> 01:15:00,292
After that night at camp three,
he was exhausted.
1103
01:15:00,394 --> 01:15:02,024
[climber coughs in background]
1104
01:15:04,600 --> 01:15:08,564
[Colin] And exhaustion
can lead to mistakes.
1105
01:15:08,666 --> 01:15:11,902
[climber continues coughing]
1106
01:15:15,405 --> 01:15:19,145
It's-- I don't even know,
but it's a 800-
to 2,000-meter fall.
1107
01:15:19,247 --> 01:15:20,973
You cannot survive that.
1108
01:15:21,075 --> 01:15:24,914
So we know
it's a recovery, and--
1109
01:15:25,016 --> 01:15:27,215
but the problem is we
have his girlfriend there.
1110
01:15:27,317 --> 01:15:29,921
- [camera bleeps]
- [Arnold] You wanna talk
to the Sherpa?
1111
01:15:30,023 --> 01:15:32,324
- He can explain what happened.
- [girlfriend sobbing]
1112
01:15:32,426 --> 01:15:34,358
[Arnold] It was horrible, and...
1113
01:15:35,160 --> 01:15:38,795
you know,
when I'm gonna tell her,
everybody's kind of hiding
1114
01:15:38,897 --> 01:15:41,899
and trying to make a post
for social media.
1115
01:15:46,241 --> 01:15:47,801
This is very stressful.
1116
01:15:48,103 --> 01:15:50,171
And it only got worse
from that point.
1117
01:15:54,912 --> 01:15:58,286
[Tamara]
When I got back to base camp,
1118
01:15:58,555 --> 01:16:03,020
Atanas just fell down,
and it was just chaos.
1119
01:16:03,422 --> 01:16:08,629
I thought,
now I just wait JP coming down,
and then just let's go away.
1120
01:16:10,233 --> 01:16:12,095
But the first question was,
1121
01:16:12,197 --> 01:16:16,703
"Do you have news about JP,
and Ali and John and so on?"
1122
01:16:18,335 --> 01:16:23,844
I realized that a bit of tension
was already in their question.
1123
01:16:24,581 --> 01:16:26,977
Base camp for Sajid,
base camp for camp three.
1124
01:16:30,149 --> 01:16:34,353
[Mohammad] I heard from Sajid
that he came from Bottleneck,
1125
01:16:34,456 --> 01:16:37,216
um, around 10am in the morning.
1126
01:16:37,318 --> 01:16:40,127
Like, his regulator
was not working well.
1127
01:16:40,229 --> 01:16:42,290
So he came to camp three,
1128
01:16:42,392 --> 01:16:48,366
and John, Ali and J. Pablo,
they went up from Bottleneck.
1129
01:16:48,935 --> 01:16:52,770
We should be realistic,
like, around about...
1130
01:16:52,873 --> 01:16:55,539
well, they should be here,
but it's now late,
1131
01:16:55,642 --> 01:16:58,338
so we are a little bit worried.
1132
01:16:59,616 --> 01:17:01,781
[Colin] I walk over
into the main comms tent,
1133
01:17:01,883 --> 01:17:05,620
and Arnold and Elia,
and a few others are in there,
1134
01:17:05,722 --> 01:17:08,684
and they have a really
worried look on their faces.
1135
01:17:09,154 --> 01:17:14,320
[Arnold]
We lose contact with Ali
and JP and Snorri,
1136
01:17:14,422 --> 01:17:16,994
but Sajid is still
in camp three at that moment.
1137
01:17:19,233 --> 01:17:22,766
[in Nepali]
1138
01:17:22,969 --> 01:17:24,571
[Elia] Is he coming down,
or what is he doing?
1139
01:17:24,673 --> 01:17:26,405
[in English]
He still is waiting up there.
1140
01:17:26,507 --> 01:17:28,706
I mean, as any son would, right?
1141
01:17:28,808 --> 01:17:30,807
There was no way
he was going anywhere.
1142
01:17:31,043 --> 01:17:33,274
But he's got this burden
that he's now carrying,
1143
01:17:33,376 --> 01:17:36,279
where he doesn't know
what happened to everyone else.
1144
01:17:36,648 --> 01:17:38,752
[tense music playing]
1145
01:17:39,986 --> 01:17:43,753
The problem was that
the weather was changing.
1146
01:17:44,289 --> 01:17:47,891
From 30-mile-an-hour winds
and minus 50 plus wind chill,
1147
01:17:47,994 --> 01:17:51,193
you know, to 60-, 70-,
80-mile-an-hour winds.
1148
01:17:51,295 --> 01:17:54,801
So it was crucial that Sajid
descend the mountain.
1149
01:17:56,135 --> 01:17:59,401
But he's supposed to just,
like, leave his father?
1150
01:17:59,503 --> 01:18:01,535
Like, there's a pretty...
'Cause what if
he could help them?
1151
01:18:01,638 --> 01:18:04,044
What if he could rescue them?
What if they're
just right there?
1152
01:18:04,146 --> 01:18:07,509
So there's
a bunch of frantic dialogue
back across these radios...
1153
01:18:07,711 --> 01:18:08,947
[Sajid, in English]
1154
01:18:10,311 --> 01:18:12,618
...saying, like,
"If you don't leave soon,
1155
01:18:12,720 --> 01:18:14,854
you're also
gonna get stuck up there."
1156
01:18:18,622 --> 01:18:20,761
[wind whistling]
1157
01:18:33,474 --> 01:18:35,402
[indistinct dialogue]
1158
01:18:38,975 --> 01:18:39,978
[Sajid, in English] Thank you.
1159
01:18:41,878 --> 01:18:42,948
[in English] Welcome back.
1160
01:18:44,584 --> 01:18:45,852
[Mohammad] I was scared.
1161
01:18:47,553 --> 01:18:52,290
[speaking Urdu]
1162
01:18:52,392 --> 01:18:54,223
[Sajid sobs]
1163
01:18:55,358 --> 01:19:00,031
- [speaking Urdu]
- [Sajid continues sobbing]
1164
01:19:03,732 --> 01:19:05,267
Sajid!
1165
01:19:08,971 --> 01:19:11,075
[indistinct dialogue]
1166
01:19:11,873 --> 01:19:13,374
[Sajid coughs]
1167
01:19:14,781 --> 01:19:18,412
[dialogue
continues indistinctly]
1168
01:19:26,057 --> 01:19:28,829
[Tamara]
Sajid came down to base camp.
1169
01:19:30,894 --> 01:19:32,328
I went immediately there.
1170
01:19:32,430 --> 01:19:36,533
And of course he was the one
who saw them the last time.
1171
01:19:36,635 --> 01:19:39,268
So I needed to know.
1172
01:19:39,735 --> 01:19:40,900
[exhales]
1173
01:19:41,002 --> 01:19:43,877
And this was...
1174
01:19:44,512 --> 01:19:46,209
nearly breaking my heart.
1175
01:19:48,515 --> 01:19:50,444
[Tamara coughs]
1176
01:19:52,649 --> 01:19:56,252
[in Urdu]
1177
01:20:08,096 --> 01:20:10,233
[indistinct dialogue]
1178
01:20:11,437 --> 01:20:15,975
[Sajid]
1179
01:20:20,679 --> 01:20:23,345
[Sajid, in English]
1180
01:20:32,227 --> 01:20:33,124
Hello?
1181
01:20:34,163 --> 01:20:35,225
Hello?
1182
01:20:36,023 --> 01:20:40,527
[Sajid, in Urdu]
1183
01:20:49,008 --> 01:20:51,375
[Elia] You know,
earlier on, I said,
1184
01:20:52,245 --> 01:20:56,147
you go into these things
hoping something's gonna happen.
1185
01:21:05,491 --> 01:21:07,756
[Elia]
1186
01:21:07,858 --> 01:21:09,490
[Sajid, in English]
1187
01:21:14,731 --> 01:21:16,035
[Elia]
1188
01:21:17,602 --> 01:21:19,335
[Elia]
1189
01:21:25,206 --> 01:21:27,311
[melancholy music playing]
1190
01:21:27,413 --> 01:21:31,719
But then when Sajid
said something
along the lines of,
1191
01:21:31,821 --> 01:21:33,613
"There's no way
that they can survive."
1192
01:21:34,784 --> 01:21:37,685
[Elia]
1193
01:21:37,787 --> 01:21:40,059
[Sajid]
1194
01:21:56,207 --> 01:21:58,275
[helicopter whirring
in background]
1195
01:22:01,982 --> 01:22:03,609
[Elia] That was
the moment for me,
1196
01:22:03,711 --> 01:22:08,319
where I realized I have gone
overboard, you know,
1197
01:22:08,421 --> 01:22:12,157
to a degree where it's like,
"What am I doing right now?
1198
01:22:13,529 --> 01:22:14,995
This is fucking real.
1199
01:22:15,829 --> 01:22:17,459
Nobody wants a camera around."
1200
01:22:24,604 --> 01:22:27,304
[radio static]
1201
01:22:36,544 --> 01:22:39,516
[Lina] In my mind,
he was still alive,
1202
01:22:40,119 --> 01:22:43,617
and when they started
to pack up,
1203
01:22:45,360 --> 01:22:49,693
I couldn't imagine
John to walk down
and everybody was gone.
1204
01:22:49,795 --> 01:22:51,893
Everything was gone.
1205
01:22:52,596 --> 01:22:58,135
I asked them to leave food,
leave clothes and stuff
1206
01:22:58,237 --> 01:23:01,272
that would be for them,
if they come down.
1207
01:23:02,071 --> 01:23:04,209
[indistinct chatter]
1208
01:23:11,718 --> 01:23:14,285
[Mohsin, in Balti]
1209
01:23:24,466 --> 01:23:27,234
[in Balti]
1210
01:23:27,336 --> 01:23:28,431
[Mohsin]
1211
01:23:31,773 --> 01:23:33,667
[melancholy music continues]
1212
01:23:52,987 --> 01:23:57,493
[Lina] But then when everybody
actually left the mountain...
1213
01:24:03,768 --> 01:24:05,105
[sighs]
1214
01:24:07,475 --> 01:24:08,506
[sniffs]
1215
01:24:08,608 --> 01:24:09,502
[exhales]
1216
01:24:10,171 --> 01:24:14,675
[voice breaking]
...well, I came to realize
that maybe he was gone.
1217
01:24:15,076 --> 01:24:16,413
[sniffs]
1218
01:24:18,184 --> 01:24:20,516
It was kinda
the first time that...
1219
01:24:22,887 --> 01:24:25,225
I knew that...
1220
01:24:25,694 --> 01:24:28,458
maybe he would not return.
1221
01:24:31,697 --> 01:24:32,825
[sighs]
1222
01:24:39,067 --> 01:24:42,475
[Colin] When I look back
and piece together
this entire thing,
1223
01:24:43,211 --> 01:24:45,711
you can Monday morning
quarterback it all day.
1224
01:24:46,147 --> 01:24:49,081
But the people
that died on this mountain
1225
01:24:49,183 --> 01:24:52,581
were actually
the most experienced people.
1226
01:24:55,853 --> 01:25:00,188
There's a reason that, in 2021,
with all the modern equipment
1227
01:25:00,290 --> 01:25:01,656
and forecasts and whatever,
1228
01:25:01,924 --> 01:25:04,158
still no one had stood
on top of this mountain
in winter.
1229
01:25:04,260 --> 01:25:06,133
And no one has ever since.
1230
01:25:09,467 --> 01:25:13,206
[Angela] No one goes
to a mountain to die.
1231
01:25:16,143 --> 01:25:18,673
People go to a mountain
to climb it
1232
01:25:20,683 --> 01:25:22,578
and to tell about it.
1233
01:25:24,852 --> 01:25:26,613
Audiences are interested
1234
01:25:26,715 --> 01:25:30,652
because life and death
are the big topics,
1235
01:25:31,220 --> 01:25:33,691
the eternal topics.
1236
01:25:33,793 --> 01:25:34,722
[mouse clicks]
1237
01:25:35,957 --> 01:25:41,667
They want to see mountaineers
put their lives in danger
1238
01:25:42,270 --> 01:25:45,436
on an Instagram post
or on a social media post.
1239
01:25:47,709 --> 01:25:49,808
But in the end...
1240
01:25:50,477 --> 01:25:56,249
this expedition ended
with ten climbers on the summit
1241
01:25:57,245 --> 01:25:58,779
and five dead.
1242
01:26:01,120 --> 01:26:02,849
That is not a good balance.
1243
01:26:09,892 --> 01:26:13,967
[Elia] So, where were you last
when you saw your dad?
1244
01:26:14,069 --> 01:26:16,434
[Sajid]
When I last saw, I'm here.
1245
01:26:19,904 --> 01:26:21,002
Okay.
1246
01:26:21,271 --> 01:26:22,605
[Sajid] There, outside.
1247
01:26:28,914 --> 01:26:33,379
[Sajid, in Urdu]
1248
01:26:33,614 --> 01:26:35,816
[soft, mournful music playing]
1249
01:26:50,432 --> 01:26:53,339
[rescue climber, in Urdu]
1250
01:26:55,839 --> 01:26:58,111
- [Elia] You okay?
- [Sajid, in English] I'm okay.
1251
01:26:58,447 --> 01:27:01,413
[Elia] No one's gonna put it
on social media. Don't worry.
1252
01:27:08,824 --> 01:27:11,017
[indistinct exclamations]
1253
01:27:11,119 --> 01:27:14,393
[Tamara] JP's mother told me,
when I was there last year,
1254
01:27:15,758 --> 01:27:18,959
"Tamara, if you had
these feelings for JP,
1255
01:27:19,695 --> 01:27:22,896
why you didn't tell him
to stay down?"
1256
01:27:25,039 --> 01:27:27,439
But I never felt like this.
1257
01:27:29,276 --> 01:27:32,407
The thing I mostly regret,
you know,
1258
01:27:32,509 --> 01:27:36,979
is that I didn't give him
a big hug
1259
01:27:37,081 --> 01:27:38,912
and, you know...
1260
01:27:40,855 --> 01:27:42,520
a real goodbye.
1261
01:28:02,441 --> 01:28:06,313
[Lina] I was sent
a photo of him and...
1262
01:28:07,315 --> 01:28:13,449
it kind of helped me
to go to him in my head,
1263
01:28:13,551 --> 01:28:18,019
and hug him
and say, "It's okay."
1264
01:28:18,121 --> 01:28:19,524
You know?
1265
01:28:20,827 --> 01:28:21,757
[gasps]
1266
01:28:23,197 --> 01:28:24,626
[voice breaking]
Just to tell him
1267
01:28:24,728 --> 01:28:27,598
I forgive him
that he will not come home.
1268
01:28:29,799 --> 01:28:33,604
And I will take care
of our children and...
1269
01:28:42,016 --> 01:28:44,846
[Sajid breathing heavily]
1270
01:28:52,893 --> 01:28:56,088
[Sajid sobs]
1271
01:28:58,425 --> 01:29:00,862
[Sajid]
1272
01:29:03,700 --> 01:29:05,604
[Sajid, on mountain]
Ya Allahu Akbar.
1273
01:29:05,806 --> 01:29:08,267
[Sajid]
1274
01:29:08,469 --> 01:29:09,673
[Sajid sniffs]
1275
01:29:46,245 --> 01:29:48,140
[mournful music continues]
1276
01:29:53,953 --> 01:29:57,457
[in Urdu]
1277
01:30:08,398 --> 01:30:11,031
[Gelje, in Nepali]
1278
01:30:47,505 --> 01:30:48,837
[Elia] Yeah. I mean for me,
1279
01:30:48,939 --> 01:30:51,511
part of why I wanted to go back
in the summer
1280
01:30:51,613 --> 01:30:55,515
was because of the allegation
that Nims cut the ropes.
1281
01:30:57,111 --> 01:30:59,619
Well, we photographed
the ropes up there.
1282
01:31:00,088 --> 01:31:01,620
There was no foul play.
1283
01:31:04,156 --> 01:31:10,024
[in English]
1284
01:31:25,510 --> 01:31:28,240
[soulful cello music playing]
1285
01:31:31,414 --> 01:31:35,688
[Elia]
So, I think it's fair to say
that Nims said what he said
1286
01:31:35,790 --> 01:31:39,691
without actually
having the intention
of cutting the ropes.
1287
01:31:48,535 --> 01:31:50,734
But the tents at camp three,
you know,
1288
01:31:50,836 --> 01:31:53,100
this for me, I mean,
that was the sticking point.
1289
01:31:56,603 --> 01:31:59,706
Had this catastrophe
not have unfolded
the way that it unfolded,
1290
01:31:59,809 --> 01:32:01,746
with all
the commercial climbers,
1291
01:32:02,679 --> 01:32:05,478
and had John, Ali and Juan Pablo
1292
01:32:05,580 --> 01:32:09,188
actually been able to get warm,
to mentally prepare,
and to sleep,
1293
01:32:09,558 --> 01:32:11,450
they would have summited
that mountain safely,
1294
01:32:11,552 --> 01:32:14,693
and descended safely,
and they would still be
alive today.
1295
01:32:18,599 --> 01:32:21,799
You know,
there is a trail of negligence.
1296
01:32:23,933 --> 01:32:26,001
And it starts
with Seven Summits.
1297
01:32:29,578 --> 01:32:31,541
[Arnold] Well,
I can understand his thinking.
1298
01:32:31,643 --> 01:32:33,511
Of course,
if you have a bad night,
1299
01:32:33,613 --> 01:32:35,807
the next morning,
the risks are higher.
1300
01:32:36,277 --> 01:32:39,948
Uh, but that doesn't mean
you have to continue
1301
01:32:40,050 --> 01:32:42,483
for your summit push,
you know, no matter what.
1302
01:32:42,585 --> 01:32:44,085
That's not our call.
1303
01:32:44,187 --> 01:32:49,025
We didn't send Ali up,
actually, we did the opposite.
1304
01:32:49,127 --> 01:32:53,028
We tried to convince him
that maybe it's not
a good time now.
1305
01:32:54,162 --> 01:32:57,231
But the army generals
show up in base camp
1306
01:32:57,333 --> 01:33:01,872
and then came the guy who makes
the documentary about him,
1307
01:33:03,274 --> 01:33:07,746
and it put a tremendous amount
of pressure on Ali, especially.
1308
01:33:09,217 --> 01:33:11,009
When I think about it now,
1309
01:33:11,111 --> 01:33:13,948
this was
a very strange expedition
1310
01:33:14,050 --> 01:33:17,089
and I learnt a lot
about fame or something.
1311
01:33:17,191 --> 01:33:18,617
Are we all happy?
1312
01:33:18,719 --> 01:33:23,496
[Arnold] For example,
the idea was to give Nepal
a moment of fame,
1313
01:33:23,598 --> 01:33:25,696
but Nims, actually,
got in the spotlight,
1314
01:33:25,799 --> 01:33:28,162
and all the other people
are kind of forgotten.
1315
01:33:29,203 --> 01:33:31,433
[crowd clamoring]
1316
01:33:32,403 --> 01:33:36,201
[Arnold]
At the end, it's only the people
who have the money and power
1317
01:33:36,303 --> 01:33:39,941
that really benefit
from this achievement.
1318
01:33:40,043 --> 01:33:43,276
And the guys
who don't speak good English
1319
01:33:43,378 --> 01:33:46,451
and cannot express themselves
in the media that good,
1320
01:33:46,553 --> 01:33:48,587
they didn't get anything
from that.
1321
01:33:48,689 --> 01:33:51,256
They're just still
the same climbing Sherpa
1322
01:33:51,358 --> 01:33:52,758
what they were before.
1323
01:34:01,069 --> 01:34:03,131
[Sajid, in Urdu]
1324
01:34:25,225 --> 01:34:30,160
[recites prayer]
1325
01:34:30,362 --> 01:34:34,998
[Sajid, in Urdu]
1326
01:35:17,376 --> 01:35:19,306
[music fades]
1327
01:35:21,578 --> 01:35:23,882
[wind whistling]
1328
01:35:38,798 --> 01:35:41,801
[rhythmic
instrumental music playing]