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Downloaded from
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Official YIFY movies site:
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Camera B.

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Damn, you're good at this!

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Now you have the chance

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to become the first person
in the world to go up there, in winter.

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To go to the top of K2.

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When you're going on a trip like this,
do you think much about death?

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When I go on a trip like this,

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then naturally death is very close.

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And…

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you just hope to be able to stand,

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how would you say it… upright.

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And even just proud during that moment.

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Hello?

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I'm not dead yet!

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But should I check your pulse?

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I know there are risks in this sport.

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But as much as he loves
to do something with the family

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and be in the norm, he needs to…

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go and live on the edge.

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We have quite a big family

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with six children.

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But at home,
it's like his mind is, like, spinning.

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Sometimes it's like…

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when people do great things,

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it comes at the cost of the family
who are standing by him.

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But mountaineers get hooked
on the thrill of summiting.

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One of the first mountains I climbed

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was Mont Blanc, in 2011.

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I remember I stood at the top.

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I was just waiting
for some feeling to come.

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But I felt nothing.

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It was only when I was descending
and I posted five pictures on Facebook,

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that's when it came.

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I'm a sport journalist.

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I report on mountaineering expeditions.

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The time of pioneers,
the time of adventures is gone.

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These days, thousands of people
flock to the Himalayas every season.

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Posting their stories on Instagram.

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Especially Everest. It's completely crazy.

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So, this is where we sleep
tonight apparently.

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But K2 in Pakistan was different.

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It's such a dangerous mountain.

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So, John Snorri announcing his intention
to summit K2 in winter,

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that really was a story.

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You have a lot
of time to think, hiking all day,

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enjoying the beauty.

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It's indescribable.

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There are 14 peaks around the world

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above 8,000 meters.

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Thirteen of them
had been climbed in winter,

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except for one:

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K2.

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The Savage Mountain.

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K2 had been on my radar
for a very long time.

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You know, my job is to sniff out stories.

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But I still never felt
like I was quite ready for K2.

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You know, one in four die who summit.

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That was the old statistic.

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And, you know, K2 is hard enough
in the summertime.

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Completely deadly in wintertime.

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For decades,
particularly the Polish and the Russians

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have been attempting
to climb K2 in winter.

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There were multiple attempts
and none of them were successful.

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This is the holy grail
for high altitude mountaineers.

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There are no more historic records.

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K2 winter was the last first.

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Okay, I'll do a lap if the GoPro works.

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Okay.

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Okay.

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We are the only ones up here,

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the only seven people camping on K2.

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Here are our supply stations.

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Our stock station.

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Lots of supplies and stuff like that,
we're very well stocked.

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We can be stuck here
for three whole months

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without needing anyone.

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This is actually our second day.

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The first day, crazy weather came
and the mess tent blew away.

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Mohsin, our chef

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and one other person,

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they were in the kitchen

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when the kitchen just simply blew away.

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Look, look, look! Avalanche!

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Do you think it'll reach?

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And here is another one! Look!

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My God!

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Most people are under an illusion
that there's safety at base camp.

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Because you got manpower

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that's preparing the tents,
the food, the water.

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But the reality is, it's freezing.

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Like, some days, it's minus 50.

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Right, and in the thin air,
your body is slowly shutting down.

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So everybody there is on borrowed time.

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John Snorri had hired
two climbing companions.

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Ali Muhammad Sadpara from Pakistan

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and Ali's son, Sajid.

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When you are alone in the mountain,
you get, like, vulnerable.

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But with Ali and Sajid,

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when they start to climb together,
everybody got so close.

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John, what are you thinking
about wind here?

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The wind is too strong.

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- I went out here to pee…
- Yeah.

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…before my pee hit the ground,
it was frozen.

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Yes.

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So, the situation is like that.

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- Yeah.
- So, we have to wait and see.

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- Yeah.
- All right.

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- A, B, C.
- A, B, C.

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Can you give me a towel?

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I think Ali was a little bit like John.

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A jolly guy, you know?

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Whoa!

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They had a good time together.

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Hey, this is our shower. The best shower.

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In our culture,
kids are afraid of their father,

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afraid of their scolding.

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Wow, very nice.

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But my father was like a friend.

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He began to be seen as a national hero,

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but even after his world class
achievements,

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he remained humble and simple.

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My father and John Snorri
were of the same age and thought alike.

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They were like friends.

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John was so happy about this friendship.

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I think it was something
that he didn't expect.

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Exercise. Yes.

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Loving this exercise.

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We've arrived, we'll stay for the night,

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then go down to base camp.

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It was a rough trek, getting up here.

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The trio!

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The main guy.

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They were alone on the mountain

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and…

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everything was good.

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If the next two days
are good, we plan to go up to camp two,

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spend the night in camp two
and see if we can do some of the lines

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on the way up to camp three.

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And spend the night back in base camp.

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But then the other team came.

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Nimsdai, here?

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We had no idea
that Nims was about to arrive

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with a Nepali Sherpa team.

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Sherpas are a strong team.
Nims brought a perfect team.

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Nimsdai was a Himalayan rock star.

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…here, in the studio,

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explorer Nirmal Purja,
better known as Nims--

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00:14:08,849 --> 00:14:10,767
Nims, just arriving in Kathmandu

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after setting a world record
many didn't think possible.

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Nobody believed that this could be done.

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He had a military career
within the United Kingdom

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and he was a British citizen.

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And then had the vision
to do something big

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and then came the idea
of breaking the speed record

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to summit all the 14 eight-thousanders.

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So the fastest time was seven years

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and then I said,
"I will do that in seven months."

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- That's insane, man.
- Yeah.

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He had used very untraditional methods.

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Like the use of helicopters

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that can take you
from one base camp to another.

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And climbing,
not just with one sherpa supporting you,

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but a whole team working for you.

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So, when Nimsdai joined
the winter K2 game,

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he was there to win it

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in a 100-percent Nepalese team.

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Nowadays, nearly everybody has their own,
personal camera operator on an expedition.

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Hi, nice to meet you.

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You too.

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And, of course, so had Nims.

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The first time I saw John and Ali,

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I took these photos of them.

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John Snorri was probably kind of bummed.

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He'd arrived, I don't know,
a month before we had.

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So he'd been shivering his tits off
long before we even set foot in Pakistan.

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And suddenly, there were quite a lot
of people on the mountain.

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I mean, Nims doesn't have many fans
in the mountaineering world anyway

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and especially when he rocks up
to try and do what you're doing…

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I think some people
kind of wished he wasn't there.

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Who're they?

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00:16:17,269 --> 00:16:18,478
Nims' Sherpas.

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00:16:20,314 --> 00:16:21,607
Wow! It's like a…

185
00:16:22,691 --> 00:16:24,401
It's like a big city.

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There's Nimsdai!

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00:16:26,195 --> 00:16:28,447
Who? Where? This guy?

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This guy? Here?

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00:16:31,742 --> 00:16:36,121
Ali and Nims had known each other
and spent time in the mountains before.

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Nepal and Pakistan have a lot in common.

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They're both very poor countries
for the most part.

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Pakistan is not quite developed as Nepal.

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So the mountaineering industry there
is definitely a little bit behind.

194
00:16:52,054 --> 00:16:53,847
How many are there with you?

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00:16:53,931 --> 00:16:57,267
One, John, and he is absolutely fine.

196
00:16:57,351 --> 00:16:59,269
He is a very nice person.

197
00:17:00,062 --> 00:17:02,689
- How's it going, Ali?
- Yeah, everything is good.

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00:17:02,773 --> 00:17:06,401
Now we are-- 24, 25 days we are here.

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00:17:06,484 --> 00:17:07,569
In base camp, yeah.

200
00:17:08,194 --> 00:17:09,820
Inshallah, our plan is go…

201
00:17:09,905 --> 00:17:12,991
If wind is little bit going down,
we go tomorrow.

202
00:17:13,617 --> 00:17:16,161
Camp one. Day after, camp two…
then we will see.

203
00:17:16,578 --> 00:17:18,454
They'll be fixing camp two up.

204
00:17:18,539 --> 00:17:19,915
Yeah.

205
00:17:19,998 --> 00:17:22,166
We are planning
to go to camp two tomorrow.

206
00:17:22,251 --> 00:17:25,170
- Seriously?
- It's no problem at all.

207
00:17:27,422 --> 00:17:29,466
You need a little bit of rest, no?

208
00:17:29,550 --> 00:17:33,011
Nimsdai's team rests when we die.

209
00:17:35,514 --> 00:17:38,892
One should be a bit careful
in the winter…

210
00:17:40,644 --> 00:17:44,606
After a very rapid
four-day trekking to base camp,

211
00:17:44,690 --> 00:17:46,233
I felt like that was…

212
00:17:46,859 --> 00:17:48,652
maybe where I should chill for a few days

213
00:17:48,735 --> 00:17:52,739
and let my white, skinny ass
catch up with the Sherpa.

214
00:17:53,365 --> 00:17:55,868
But this was the last opportunity

215
00:17:55,951 --> 00:17:58,495
to get a first winter ascent
on an eight-thousander

216
00:17:58,579 --> 00:18:01,248
and Nims wanted to be the first to summit.

217
00:18:02,249 --> 00:18:03,625
As did many others.

218
00:18:03,959 --> 00:18:08,338
We're here trekking
to K2 base camp in the Karakoram.

219
00:18:09,590 --> 00:18:10,924
The whole mountaineering scene

220
00:18:11,008 --> 00:18:14,386
was kind of getting really itchy feet
through COVID.

221
00:18:15,846 --> 00:18:17,347
Practically no one here.

222
00:18:17,431 --> 00:18:21,059
And then suddenly the first
big expedition to be open to Westerners

223
00:18:21,143 --> 00:18:22,311
was K2 winter.

224
00:18:26,315 --> 00:18:29,902
That's right. A few tents back there,
that's K2 base camp. We did it.

225
00:18:31,361 --> 00:18:33,030
It's been a great journey.

226
00:18:33,530 --> 00:18:36,742
First leg, done.
We're at K2 base camp.

227
00:18:36,825 --> 00:18:39,077
Potentially my home
for the next couple months.

228
00:18:39,161 --> 00:18:41,872
I was coming off the back
of two very historic world firsts.

229
00:18:41,955 --> 00:18:45,918
In my solo crossing of Antarctica
and my row across the Drake Passage.

230
00:18:46,001 --> 00:18:48,629
Welcome to the show, Colin.
It's so good to see you.

231
00:18:48,712 --> 00:18:51,298
This is a guy
who walked across Antarctica.

232
00:18:51,381 --> 00:18:52,966
- How many days did it take you?
- 54 days.

233
00:18:53,050 --> 00:18:54,384
- By yourself?
- By myself.

234
00:18:54,468 --> 00:18:55,344
Thank you very much.

235
00:18:55,427 --> 00:18:57,679
And so I was already kind of,
a little bit on the lookout

236
00:18:57,763 --> 00:18:59,431
for, like, other world firsts

237
00:18:59,515 --> 00:19:02,100
or other, sort of, pioneering expeditions
that I could take on.

238
00:19:02,184 --> 00:19:03,769
I appreciate you guys having me.

239
00:19:03,852 --> 00:19:05,395
I feel I have more energy now, just--

240
00:19:05,479 --> 00:19:06,855
- Let's go!
- Being around you.

241
00:19:07,523 --> 00:19:10,234
First ascents in mountaineering
are a big deal.

242
00:19:11,735 --> 00:19:13,612
I wasn't alive in the early 1950s

243
00:19:13,695 --> 00:19:16,281
when Mount Everest and K2
were summited for the first time.

244
00:19:16,365 --> 00:19:20,202
It was just kinda like, "I missed it.
I guess I wasn't born in the right era."

245
00:19:20,953 --> 00:19:23,080
So I was like, "How can I leave my mark?

246
00:19:23,163 --> 00:19:26,124
Where can I do something first
or original?"

247
00:19:27,417 --> 00:19:30,754
National Geographic was like,
"Whoever climbs K2 in the winter

248
00:19:30,838 --> 00:19:33,674
will claim the last great prize
in mountaineering."

249
00:19:34,174 --> 00:19:36,510
You know, those are big words, obviously.

250
00:19:40,138 --> 00:19:43,392
Hands down, K2 is the most dangerous
mountain in the world to climb.

251
00:19:46,645 --> 00:19:49,231
There's a bunch of vertical faces
dropping off, you know,

252
00:19:49,314 --> 00:19:50,899
thousands and thousands of feet.

253
00:19:51,567 --> 00:19:53,360
So you can't make a single mistake.

254
00:19:54,152 --> 00:19:58,073
It's like, you fall and you fall
directly down the entire route.

255
00:19:59,449 --> 00:20:02,661
It's hard enough in summer, but in winter,
it's the toughest season.

256
00:20:02,744 --> 00:20:04,788
It's the coldest, it's the darkest…

257
00:20:04,872 --> 00:20:06,874
It's just a brutal situation.

258
00:20:09,334 --> 00:20:14,506
And then I had just thought, intuitively,
winter, there's just gonna be deeper snow

259
00:20:14,590 --> 00:20:16,091
and potential for more avalanches.

260
00:20:17,467 --> 00:20:19,636
We did see some avalanches over there.

261
00:20:21,471 --> 00:20:22,931
But actually, in winter,

262
00:20:23,015 --> 00:20:25,350
the winds are so high
on the upper part of the mountain,

263
00:20:26,018 --> 00:20:27,978
it basically just gets wind-scoured.

264
00:20:29,188 --> 00:20:32,691
And the winds were so violent
that they were just dislodging rocks.

265
00:20:33,442 --> 00:20:34,651
Rock!

266
00:20:34,735 --> 00:20:36,820
So thirty or forty times per day,

267
00:20:36,904 --> 00:20:39,364
you've got anything
from the size of a pebble like this

268
00:20:39,448 --> 00:20:43,493
to, you know, massive rocks this size
flying down the mountain right at you.

269
00:20:50,709 --> 00:20:54,004
K2 was the last unclimbed peak
in the winter,

270
00:20:54,087 --> 00:20:57,132
so I knew this is my last chance.

271
00:20:57,216 --> 00:21:02,554
I was so close on Nanga Parbat in 2016
and now it's only K2 left.

272
00:21:02,971 --> 00:21:05,307
I've been waiting for the sunrise,

273
00:21:05,390 --> 00:21:08,769
counting the minutes until the sun comes.

274
00:21:10,312 --> 00:21:14,316
Up there, in winter,
I never felt so alone.

275
00:21:17,569 --> 00:21:22,115
Even if you're in a team,
you cannot look after somebody else.

276
00:21:24,034 --> 00:21:29,206
Everybody goes for his or her own life.

277
00:21:34,711 --> 00:21:41,093
The crazy thing was, on K2,
I thought there will be very few people.

278
00:21:41,510 --> 00:21:44,805
And then I arrive there,
"Oh, my! Holy shit!

279
00:21:45,848 --> 00:21:47,558
Where am I going right now?"

280
00:21:47,641 --> 00:21:50,811
Because it seems to me a big expedition.

281
00:21:53,689 --> 00:21:55,524
What had happened was

282
00:21:55,607 --> 00:21:58,110
a company called Seven Summit Treks
had realized

283
00:21:58,193 --> 00:21:59,945
a lot of people
are interested in this project

284
00:22:00,028 --> 00:22:01,864
and so they were like,
"We should put together,

285
00:22:01,947 --> 00:22:04,074
essentially, a commercial expedition."

286
00:22:04,491 --> 00:22:06,326
And so, everyone that goes over there

287
00:22:06,410 --> 00:22:09,204
ends up paying
for a Seven Summit Treks permit.

288
00:22:11,331 --> 00:22:13,834
I met Sergi and JP.

289
00:22:13,917 --> 00:22:16,670
They were such strong mountaineers.

290
00:22:17,421 --> 00:22:19,423
And I felt immediately connected.

291
00:22:20,465 --> 00:22:23,719
I don't want to pitch a tent.

292
00:22:23,802 --> 00:22:27,681
Especially to JP,
because he seemed so beautiful to me.

293
00:22:29,141 --> 00:22:32,644
But K2 winter is really something…

294
00:22:33,562 --> 00:22:35,439
fucking hard, you know?

295
00:22:36,356 --> 00:22:39,276
And I think that some of the people
in the base camp

296
00:22:39,359 --> 00:22:41,945
were not aware about this fact.

297
00:22:42,321 --> 00:22:45,657
Quite the party going on here.
That's for sure.

298
00:22:50,746 --> 00:22:53,790
So half the group
were experienced climbers.

299
00:22:54,958 --> 00:22:57,878
The other half were novices.

300
00:22:58,587 --> 00:23:01,048
I think those people
had no idea what they got into.

301
00:23:01,840 --> 00:23:05,260
- Like Christmas!
- Winter expedition. K2 winter expedition.

302
00:23:05,677 --> 00:23:09,932
The company made a decision to go to K2
because it was COVID time.

303
00:23:10,015 --> 00:23:12,392
We couldn't do anything else, basically.

304
00:23:12,476 --> 00:23:14,478
All of a sudden Pakistan was open.

305
00:23:15,771 --> 00:23:20,067
So going to K2 was a chance
for the business to survive.

306
00:23:26,448 --> 00:23:32,037
I saw on Facebook
that Seven Summits agency from Nepal,

307
00:23:32,120 --> 00:23:35,040
they're doing K2 winter expedition.

308
00:23:36,959 --> 00:23:40,379
I wrote to them, "What's the price?"

309
00:23:40,462 --> 00:23:44,883
They immediately wrote,
"Oh, we are starting doing your visa now."

310
00:23:45,425 --> 00:23:47,928
Seven and a half hours.

311
00:23:49,221 --> 00:23:52,140
I didn't expect it to be that much.

312
00:23:54,101 --> 00:23:56,019
To be honest,
it would have been better

313
00:23:56,103 --> 00:24:00,649
if there's only 10 people on the mountain,
instead of, like, 60 people in total.

314
00:24:00,732 --> 00:24:02,985
That's kind of crazy for K2 winter.

315
00:24:04,278 --> 00:24:08,156
But the fun part about my job
is that people come from everywhere.

316
00:24:08,240 --> 00:24:09,700
All different backgrounds.

317
00:24:10,534 --> 00:24:12,077
- Can be a housewife…
- Hello!

318
00:24:12,160 --> 00:24:14,997
…can be an athlete,
can be a business owner.

319
00:24:18,709 --> 00:24:21,378
I get around a lot,

320
00:24:21,461 --> 00:24:25,340
and I try to travel
around the world as much as possible.

321
00:24:27,342 --> 00:24:31,555
For me, it's important
to experience adventures

322
00:24:31,638 --> 00:24:33,974
so that life isn't boring.

323
00:24:34,057 --> 00:24:36,310
Just lying around at a hotel
or on the beach

324
00:24:36,393 --> 00:24:37,853
would be far too dull for me.

325
00:24:39,188 --> 00:24:45,360
I noticed
they were planning to attempt K2,

326
00:24:45,444 --> 00:24:47,654
and we arranged everything from there.

327
00:24:55,329 --> 00:24:57,873
I was literally sitting
at home in my pajamas

328
00:24:57,956 --> 00:25:02,794
and I'm watching all these people
on social media, show up in Pakistan.

329
00:25:03,754 --> 00:25:06,590
Right, it's a commercialized endeavor
at this point.

330
00:25:08,175 --> 00:25:10,385
This was a fuck-up by Seven Summits,

331
00:25:10,886 --> 00:25:12,888
which Arnold was a part of.

332
00:25:13,972 --> 00:25:15,682
Because if you commercialize K2,

333
00:25:15,766 --> 00:25:17,976
the way you've commercialized
Mount Everest,

334
00:25:18,060 --> 00:25:19,728
bad things are going to happen.

335
00:25:20,103 --> 00:25:22,898
And that's in the summertime.
Let alone the winter.

336
00:25:24,107 --> 00:25:27,152
This is how we're doing the expedition.

337
00:25:53,303 --> 00:25:54,638
Let's see how it goes.

338
00:25:54,721 --> 00:25:59,059
We have the tent here
on the edge as usual.

339
00:25:59,560 --> 00:26:03,397
Here are our 700-meter lines
that we carried up here.

340
00:26:05,607 --> 00:26:07,609
John was disappointed.

341
00:26:08,694 --> 00:26:11,864
It's, like, a really difficult expedition.

342
00:26:11,947 --> 00:26:15,492
So, he had hoped he would be alone.

343
00:26:17,452 --> 00:26:19,913
But with all the other climbers…

344
00:26:21,999 --> 00:26:24,710
the expedition was totally different.

345
00:26:26,837 --> 00:26:28,630
Now it was a competition.

346
00:26:29,298 --> 00:26:30,215
And…

347
00:26:31,633 --> 00:26:35,637
he wanted to conquer it as much as them.

348
00:26:37,055 --> 00:26:39,558
Nims and co,
they are going to come up soon.

349
00:26:39,641 --> 00:26:41,852
Then they have to camp somewhere.

350
00:26:42,311 --> 00:26:45,689
Finding space for tents
will be very difficult.

351
00:26:45,772 --> 00:26:49,276
Then there comes a group of 50 people
from Seven Summit.

352
00:26:50,360 --> 00:26:53,655
It should be possible
to put one tent there,

353
00:26:53,739 --> 00:26:57,868
and I know you can put one there,
so two people can sleep there.

354
00:26:59,161 --> 00:27:00,954
This will be something.

355
00:27:06,668 --> 00:27:07,961
Hi.

356
00:27:08,795 --> 00:27:10,547
Hi, sweetie. What's up?

357
00:27:10,631 --> 00:27:12,508
All good, and you?

358
00:27:12,925 --> 00:27:14,551
Everything's okay.

359
00:27:14,927 --> 00:27:16,011
Yeah?

360
00:27:16,970 --> 00:27:18,263
What's up?

361
00:27:18,347 --> 00:27:20,724
There are so many people
up in the camps.

362
00:27:20,807 --> 00:27:21,642
Yes.

363
00:27:21,725 --> 00:27:24,394
There are so many people here.

364
00:27:25,812 --> 00:27:28,690
I know all of this is really tough

365
00:27:28,774 --> 00:27:31,360
but you have to try to be strong somehow.

366
00:27:32,361 --> 00:27:34,988
Just be smart in this competition.

367
00:27:35,489 --> 00:27:39,660
Yes, I know. I have to be smart.

368
00:27:39,743 --> 00:27:42,204
Okay, sweetie. I love you.

369
00:27:42,704 --> 00:27:44,331
I love you too, sweetie.

370
00:27:44,414 --> 00:27:45,249
Okay, good night.

371
00:27:45,332 --> 00:27:46,834
- Speak tomorrow.
- Yes.

372
00:27:46,917 --> 00:27:49,211
Bye.

373
00:28:00,889 --> 00:28:03,642
Traditionally on the route,
there are five camps above base camp.

374
00:28:04,685 --> 00:28:06,144
Camp one's roughly there.

375
00:28:06,228 --> 00:28:08,605
Camp two, up into there.

376
00:28:08,689 --> 00:28:10,899
Camp three, back in there.

377
00:28:10,983 --> 00:28:13,694
Then, backside of that,
Bottleneck to the summit.

378
00:28:14,862 --> 00:28:16,113
And that is very common.

379
00:28:16,196 --> 00:28:19,116
You see the same thing on most
of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks.

380
00:28:19,533 --> 00:28:22,911
Because most of these mountains
can't be climbed in a single push.

381
00:28:23,412 --> 00:28:24,371
Climbing up!

382
00:28:24,454 --> 00:28:26,331
You actually need to climb
up and down the mountain a few times.

383
00:28:26,415 --> 00:28:28,709
You need to climb up
to camp one, camp two, camp three,

384
00:28:29,668 --> 00:28:33,046
stock your camps with gear and supplies
as well as get acclimatized.

385
00:28:33,130 --> 00:28:34,840
So, get your body used to the thin air.

386
00:28:35,549 --> 00:28:37,718
And then you just go back to base camp.

387
00:28:38,302 --> 00:28:40,053
How's it going?

388
00:28:40,554 --> 00:28:42,472
Hot…

389
00:28:42,556 --> 00:28:44,308
hard…

390
00:28:45,684 --> 00:28:47,477
and I feel alive!

391
00:28:50,272 --> 00:28:53,525
One of the main things
was how is the rope gonna be fixed

392
00:28:53,609 --> 00:28:54,943
to the top of that mountain?

393
00:28:57,237 --> 00:28:58,739
When we first got to base camp,

394
00:28:58,822 --> 00:29:01,158
John Snorri and Ali
had already been up on the mountain,

395
00:29:01,241 --> 00:29:03,493
and they had already fixed
some ropes up there,

396
00:29:04,661 --> 00:29:09,333
but actually no one had put ropes
above camp two.

397
00:29:11,293 --> 00:29:12,711
And it became very clear

398
00:29:12,794 --> 00:29:15,297
this was such a dangerous mountain
to climb…

399
00:29:17,633 --> 00:29:20,010
that everyone was there
to try to get the first ascent,

400
00:29:20,093 --> 00:29:22,346
everyone was racing to be first,

401
00:29:24,181 --> 00:29:27,184
and everyone realized, actually,
the best case scenario for safety,

402
00:29:27,267 --> 00:29:28,977
as well as potential success,

403
00:29:29,061 --> 00:29:31,563
was for us to kind of all collude
and do this together.

404
00:29:32,856 --> 00:29:34,858
It was kind of like the United Nations.

405
00:29:34,942 --> 00:29:38,237
And our plan was to just all, you know,
climb this mountain as one.

406
00:29:42,908 --> 00:29:45,994
I mean, you should speak
to the Sherpas about that.

407
00:29:48,539 --> 00:29:49,414
Why?

408
00:29:49,998 --> 00:29:54,503
Because no one
wants to be the bad guy, right?

409
00:29:56,129 --> 00:29:58,757
But the competition was there.

410
00:30:03,095 --> 00:30:06,557
It was a competition,
like a football match.

411
00:30:08,141 --> 00:30:12,688
Until now,
there has been no Nepalese record

412
00:30:12,771 --> 00:30:17,401
in winter mountain climbing.

413
00:30:18,151 --> 00:30:22,698
So if, in the winter K2 trip,
the Nepalese got there first,

414
00:30:23,323 --> 00:30:27,744
we could have the chance
to raise our flag.

415
00:30:27,828 --> 00:30:32,457
So that was very important
for us Nepalese.

416
00:30:32,958 --> 00:30:35,544
Guys, this is, I think…

417
00:30:36,587 --> 00:30:39,256
25-year-old Chivas.

418
00:30:39,840 --> 00:30:42,342
'Cause today is New Year's Eve,
we need to celebrate.

419
00:30:45,679 --> 00:30:49,099
That night it was
New Year's Eve for the Westerners.

420
00:30:57,983 --> 00:31:00,652
But the Nepalese team had started
speaking and planning privately.

421
00:31:01,737 --> 00:31:04,573
If it's a foreigner,
I'd rather fucking die

422
00:31:04,656 --> 00:31:09,077
but I won't let them get ahead.
I'm being straight with you.

423
00:31:11,205 --> 00:31:15,501
That night was
the beginning of a change of strategy.

424
00:31:15,584 --> 00:31:18,962
Which became much more nationalistic.

425
00:31:21,465 --> 00:31:22,508
What I didn't know

426
00:31:22,591 --> 00:31:26,845
was that the expedition co-leader
of the Seven Summit Trek team was there.

427
00:31:28,472 --> 00:31:31,225
I work for a company owned by Sherpas.

428
00:31:32,893 --> 00:31:37,731
Sherpas were really walking around
barefooted at nothing, like 20 years ago.

429
00:31:38,065 --> 00:31:41,735
And they saw tourists,
and they knew it was smart

430
00:31:41,818 --> 00:31:45,155
to become a climber, and they all
worked their way up from a porter.

431
00:31:45,531 --> 00:31:47,866
I think Nepalese should take this summit.

432
00:31:47,950 --> 00:31:48,951
Yeah.

433
00:31:49,034 --> 00:31:50,077
Don't wait too long.

434
00:31:50,160 --> 00:31:54,873
Because if you wait one more week,
then our team, there are strong climbers,

435
00:31:54,957 --> 00:31:58,126
and they're gonna take it.
You guys should take it.

436
00:31:58,210 --> 00:32:00,754
The Nepalese should take this summit.

437
00:32:00,838 --> 00:32:02,047
So the Western climbers,

438
00:32:02,130 --> 00:32:04,675
might have been told all the Sherpas
were there for them.

439
00:32:04,758 --> 00:32:05,968
You know, to help them.

440
00:32:07,886 --> 00:32:13,141
But it would actually have been sad,
if a guy who just paid money

441
00:32:13,225 --> 00:32:15,185
got to the top first.

442
00:32:15,769 --> 00:32:19,189
That's also my opinion,
even though I was leading those people.

443
00:32:20,524 --> 00:32:24,736
All I want is a record
for Nepal. More than anything.

444
00:32:24,820 --> 00:32:27,865
Rest assured it will be Nepal on top.

445
00:32:27,948 --> 00:32:31,159
Until we fix the ropes ahead,
the foreigners can't go.

446
00:32:31,243 --> 00:32:34,872
I hope none of them get
there first. I hope it's only Nepalese.

447
00:32:34,955 --> 00:32:38,542
So, brother, we are on the same page.

448
00:32:38,625 --> 00:32:42,171
Here in the mountains,
our brothers have worked so hard,

449
00:32:42,254 --> 00:32:45,674
but when people talk about a winter ascent
you hear a fucking white person's name.

450
00:32:45,757 --> 00:32:47,259
Happy New Year.

451
00:32:47,342 --> 00:32:48,594
Happy New Year.

452
00:32:52,556 --> 00:32:57,436
My first job was to collect yak dung
to make briquettes for fuel.

453
00:33:06,653 --> 00:33:10,782
So the difference
between my story and theirs

454
00:33:10,866 --> 00:33:14,328
is that of hardship.

455
00:33:14,411 --> 00:33:17,039
I had a different life.

456
00:33:17,414 --> 00:33:21,835
So it was never our plan
to summit together.

457
00:33:43,398 --> 00:33:49,321
A few days later, they had a meeting,
the Nepalese and John and Ali,

458
00:33:49,404 --> 00:33:53,367
where they discussed the summit plan.

459
00:33:54,034 --> 00:33:56,870
So John called me
and told me about this meeting.

460
00:33:56,954 --> 00:34:02,793
So, is it just you
with the Nepalis and Pakistanis?

461
00:34:03,293 --> 00:34:04,127
Yes.

462
00:34:04,211 --> 00:34:05,295
No other foreigner?

463
00:34:05,379 --> 00:34:08,257
No one else, no.

464
00:34:09,049 --> 00:34:11,051
It was like a negotiation.

465
00:34:12,427 --> 00:34:18,725
John and Ali had already
brought 700-meter rope up

466
00:34:19,768 --> 00:34:25,148
and it was agreed on that the Nepalese
would take it and use it.

467
00:34:26,065 --> 00:34:31,612
So in return they would go all together
to achieve the summit.

468
00:34:35,617 --> 00:34:37,995
We are working together.

469
00:34:39,371 --> 00:34:42,123
That is a huge step forward

470
00:34:42,206 --> 00:34:46,420
and in the next window,
we can try to reach the summit.

471
00:34:46,503 --> 00:34:47,920
Yes.

472
00:35:06,398 --> 00:35:10,944
Honestly, this project is for our country.

473
00:35:11,987 --> 00:35:16,074
There are also foreigners here,
so I won't share everything.

474
00:35:16,158 --> 00:35:17,284
But let me be clear.

475
00:35:17,367 --> 00:35:20,829
If there are any foreigners behind us,
I will pull up the ropes.

476
00:35:20,913 --> 00:35:23,957
You can blame it on me.

477
00:35:24,041 --> 00:35:29,421
Remember
that we're all Nepalese mountaineers.

478
00:35:29,505 --> 00:35:32,216
On this occasion,
it'll be for our country, okay?

479
00:35:34,593 --> 00:35:36,595
So, that is it.

480
00:35:37,429 --> 00:35:39,056
And we're done. Thank you, brother.

481
00:35:43,227 --> 00:35:47,356
So the weather window
they agreed on with the Sherpas

482
00:35:47,439 --> 00:35:49,983
was around the 16th.

483
00:35:50,067 --> 00:35:51,693
- Sunny there, John?
- Yeah.

484
00:35:52,653 --> 00:35:53,487
Lemon juice.

485
00:35:58,200 --> 00:36:03,872
So, in the morning,
they were waiting for the call from Nims

486
00:36:03,956 --> 00:36:05,582
to summit together.

487
00:36:05,666 --> 00:36:09,586
John Snorri, five star hotel!

488
00:36:09,670 --> 00:36:11,088
On the radios in base camp

489
00:36:11,171 --> 00:36:13,215
everyone's like,
"Well, where are the Nepalese?"

490
00:36:13,298 --> 00:36:14,508
And at first they were like,

491
00:36:14,591 --> 00:36:17,386
"Oh, yeah, we're just bringing gear
up there. You know, we'll see.

492
00:36:17,469 --> 00:36:20,097
Tomorrow looks like
it's gonna be bad weather."

493
00:36:20,180 --> 00:36:23,350
Just kind of this friendly,
you know, camaraderie.

494
00:36:25,394 --> 00:36:27,020
Camp 2 for base camp, over.

495
00:36:27,104 --> 00:36:32,442
But later on we noticed that Nims
and the Nepalese had gone quiet.

496
00:36:32,526 --> 00:36:34,319
Complete radio silence.

497
00:36:34,403 --> 00:36:35,696
Camp 2, over.

498
00:36:37,531 --> 00:36:39,157
Camp 2, over.

499
00:36:39,241 --> 00:36:41,743
In the past, they had been pretty open,
talking on those channels.

500
00:36:41,827 --> 00:36:45,622
Then all of a sudden, they kind of
disappeared from those channels.

501
00:36:45,706 --> 00:36:47,666
So it was kind of this question mark of,

502
00:36:48,417 --> 00:36:50,085
"Are those guys going for it?"

503
00:36:50,794 --> 00:36:52,796
Camp 2, base camp, base camp.

504
00:37:02,639 --> 00:37:05,142
My father said,

505
00:37:05,225 --> 00:37:11,857
"I have known them for years.

506
00:37:11,940 --> 00:37:15,277
We have done many missions
and summits together.

507
00:37:15,360 --> 00:37:18,488
If they have a plan,
they will definitely share it with us."

508
00:37:26,830 --> 00:37:32,085
But then we realized
that they planned the summit secretly.

509
00:37:38,133 --> 00:37:40,969
The Nepalese had started the summit,

510
00:37:41,845 --> 00:37:44,598
but it was too late for John.

511
00:37:44,681 --> 00:37:46,892
They already missed that window.

512
00:37:56,235 --> 00:37:59,112
John just couldn't believe
it was happening.

513
00:37:59,863 --> 00:38:01,406
He was angry,

514
00:38:02,616 --> 00:38:06,119
because he thought they had an agreement.

515
00:38:07,412 --> 00:38:09,540
No wind, huh?

516
00:38:15,087 --> 00:38:16,505
It was over.

517
00:38:18,048 --> 00:38:23,470
The Nepalese wanted to take
the summit for their nation.

518
00:38:23,554 --> 00:38:26,890
It was clearly the plan.

519
00:38:32,729 --> 00:38:37,943
I could see the disappointment
on their faces.

520
00:38:39,862 --> 00:38:44,283
They were quite shocked.

521
00:38:51,874 --> 00:38:55,586
Later that night,
the Nepalese started coming down.

522
00:38:59,131 --> 00:39:02,926
I felt really sorry for Ali and for John,

523
00:39:03,010 --> 00:39:10,017
because they fixed the ropes
and so they expected

524
00:39:10,100 --> 00:39:16,732
to be part of this summit push,
and they were just excluded.

525
00:39:16,815 --> 00:39:17,983
Congrats.

526
00:39:20,360 --> 00:39:23,739
Many of those guys are, you know,
some of the best climbers in the world.

527
00:39:23,822 --> 00:39:25,657
And they have a genetic disposition

528
00:39:25,741 --> 00:39:29,369
because they've, you know, for generations
and generations lived at high altitude,

529
00:39:29,453 --> 00:39:32,414
to be really strong in the Himalayas,
which is incredible.

530
00:39:34,875 --> 00:39:38,420
But Ali and John
had been, kind of, left behind.

531
00:39:39,588 --> 00:39:41,423
And of course there was
a part of me that was like,

532
00:39:41,507 --> 00:39:44,510
"It would've been awesome if
we could've all been up there together."

533
00:39:46,261 --> 00:39:49,556
There were many Westerners
who were happy for us

534
00:39:49,640 --> 00:39:51,725
when we returned from summiting.

535
00:39:52,309 --> 00:39:55,812
But there were some
who were jealous of us.

536
00:39:55,896 --> 00:39:58,398
It made me upset.

537
00:39:59,399 --> 00:40:05,822
This was about 10 times harder
than any mountain I've climbed.

538
00:40:08,534 --> 00:40:14,206
I got frostbite on my cheeks,
so I was also really scared.

539
00:40:19,795 --> 00:40:23,715
Very few people
achieve a world record in life.

540
00:40:23,799 --> 00:40:26,593
It's something I'm very proud of.

541
00:40:30,180 --> 00:40:31,640
Really the problem is

542
00:40:31,723 --> 00:40:33,892
that normally the Nepalis
are friendly and helpful

543
00:40:33,976 --> 00:40:36,270
and help the Westerners get to the top.

544
00:40:36,353 --> 00:40:39,606
But this was really an expedition
where there was none of that.

545
00:40:40,566 --> 00:40:41,692
And there was no way

546
00:40:41,775 --> 00:40:45,445
that Nims was gonna agree
to taking any Westerners to the summit.

547
00:40:48,657 --> 00:40:50,284
Like, when we were in base camp,

548
00:40:50,367 --> 00:40:53,412
Nims had told me
to pack for five days' climbing,

549
00:40:53,495 --> 00:40:55,455
which would have included a summit.

550
00:40:57,124 --> 00:41:01,253
But then, once we got to camp three,
Nims said, "You need to go down."

551
00:41:01,336 --> 00:41:03,797
So I was so pissed off.

552
00:41:07,384 --> 00:41:09,928
That said, in all these old climbing films

553
00:41:10,012 --> 00:41:13,473
it's always the Westerners
that turn the Sherpa around at camp four,

554
00:41:13,557 --> 00:41:15,350
so it's a glorious Western summit

555
00:41:15,434 --> 00:41:18,520
and no one needs to mention
the Sherpa working for them. So…

556
00:41:19,104 --> 00:41:22,649
Part of me thinks that Nims
just did a reverse twist of that.

557
00:41:26,486 --> 00:41:30,908
All 8,000-meter mountains are climbed
thanks to the work of the Sherpa.

558
00:41:31,408 --> 00:41:34,203
But in terms of recognition
they were always last.

559
00:41:34,286 --> 00:41:36,038
Congratulations, man. Well deserved.

560
00:41:36,121 --> 00:41:39,791
I met this U.S. Marine once,
who gave me this Bible quote,

561
00:41:40,375 --> 00:41:44,004
"The first shall be last,
and the last first."

562
00:41:45,756 --> 00:41:48,842
I don't know who came up with that saying,
but it's an absolute banger.

563
00:42:03,106 --> 00:42:07,152
It was super hard
for us to be happy for the Sherpa.

564
00:42:07,736 --> 00:42:09,863
Because the next day in the morning,

565
00:42:10,405 --> 00:42:14,701
me and my cameraman, Oswald,

566
00:42:14,785 --> 00:42:18,038
we were going down from camp two,

567
00:42:20,541 --> 00:42:24,795
and that's when the accident happened.

568
00:42:30,843 --> 00:42:33,720
At some point,
I heard some noise coming down.

569
00:42:33,804 --> 00:42:36,515
I thought, "This has to be,
like, a huge rock."

570
00:42:38,350 --> 00:42:40,978
And I just grabbed, the fastest I could,

571
00:42:41,061 --> 00:42:43,897
like, the GoPro
that I had in my internal pocket.

572
00:42:43,981 --> 00:42:45,190
In my down suit.

573
00:42:53,115 --> 00:42:54,116
Somehow I'm happy

574
00:42:54,199 --> 00:42:56,910
that I didn't record the moment
when you see the body.

575
00:42:57,619 --> 00:42:59,329
But you can see that the gloves,

576
00:42:59,413 --> 00:43:02,165
mitten gloves
are still, like, falling down.

577
00:43:03,667 --> 00:43:05,294
You saw what happened?

578
00:43:05,377 --> 00:43:07,254
- You saw what happened?
- I don't know.

579
00:43:07,337 --> 00:43:09,840
You will go down
to see what's happened. Yes? Okay.

580
00:43:12,342 --> 00:43:14,720
I went after Juan Pablo.

581
00:43:17,181 --> 00:43:21,351
The closer I was getting, I understood
that there is a person laying down

582
00:43:22,269 --> 00:43:24,229
on the floor, on the rocks.

583
00:43:24,313 --> 00:43:27,983
And then Tamara said, "It's Sergi."

584
00:43:31,236 --> 00:43:35,949
Sergi Mingote was perhaps
the most experienced climber

585
00:43:36,033 --> 00:43:37,451
on the mountain.

586
00:43:38,285 --> 00:43:43,290
He was climbing
with his friend, Juan Pablo Mohr.

587
00:43:47,628 --> 00:43:51,840
Normally mountaineers,
they're a little bit more closed.

588
00:43:51,924 --> 00:43:53,383
A bit of ego.

589
00:43:55,260 --> 00:44:01,517
But with those guys, I experienced
completely the opposite thing, you know.

590
00:44:04,394 --> 00:44:09,566
And especially Sergi
gave me this feeling of, "I am safe."

591
00:44:21,537 --> 00:44:23,539
When he fell down…

592
00:44:25,207 --> 00:44:29,795
I was so under shock,
that my body is just functioning.

593
00:44:29,878 --> 00:44:32,714
There is no emotion allowed.

594
00:44:34,341 --> 00:44:36,927
You know, it's a super absurd situation.

595
00:44:38,637 --> 00:44:43,141
You have, like, the body of Sergi
just left there in a sleeping bag.

596
00:44:45,060 --> 00:44:48,313
But then, like, you have
all these people surrounding him,

597
00:44:48,397 --> 00:44:50,315
trying to do some recordings.

598
00:45:00,284 --> 00:45:04,788
For me, in this moment, I was thinking,
the first ascent is gone.

599
00:45:04,872 --> 00:45:07,583
Like, the "prize" of being first is gone.

600
00:45:08,333 --> 00:45:11,253
And now Sergi, one of the most
experienced guys out there…

601
00:45:12,004 --> 00:45:13,714
No one really knows what happened.

602
00:45:15,174 --> 00:45:17,217
Possibly he got hit by a rock.

603
00:45:18,343 --> 00:45:19,636
And he's dead.

604
00:45:21,889 --> 00:45:23,473
It's time to go home.

605
00:45:29,855 --> 00:45:34,234
When Sergi died, I really felt
like the odds were not in our favor.

606
00:45:34,651 --> 00:45:39,364
And to continue this climb
was actually not a good idea.

607
00:45:41,241 --> 00:45:44,203
Especially with all the novice climbers.

608
00:45:44,286 --> 00:45:47,456
Like, "Look, now
this experienced guy, he fell down.

609
00:45:47,539 --> 00:45:49,708
What's gonna happen
to the rest?" You know?

610
00:45:55,506 --> 00:45:58,967
Later, I was just sitting down
and I was crying.

611
00:45:59,051 --> 00:46:03,639
And in this moment I said,
"Okay, this expedition, for me, is over.

612
00:46:03,722 --> 00:46:05,557
I just want to go home now."

613
00:46:06,517 --> 00:46:10,270
Yeah, first thing tomorrow,
everyone was going home.

614
00:46:11,230 --> 00:46:13,232
The Nepali team climbed the mountain.

615
00:46:13,732 --> 00:46:14,900
Sergi died.

616
00:46:15,734 --> 00:46:17,402
It was, like, no point to be here.

617
00:46:31,500 --> 00:46:35,295
But then the next thing
that happens is these helicopters arrive,

618
00:46:35,379 --> 00:46:39,174
full of high-ranking military officers.

619
00:46:39,925 --> 00:46:43,387
The Nepalese have successfully
summited K2 in winter,

620
00:46:43,470 --> 00:46:47,057
and the Pakistani military
came to celebrate.

621
00:46:52,938 --> 00:46:55,732
The military who came
with the helicopter said,

622
00:46:55,816 --> 00:46:58,735
"How is this possible
that the Nepali are going to the top,

623
00:46:58,819 --> 00:47:02,614
and Ali and John
are here already one month before,

624
00:47:02,698 --> 00:47:06,243
and now they have no summit?"

625
00:47:06,326 --> 00:47:10,289
So it was, like,
the hero of Pakistan failed.

626
00:47:14,293 --> 00:47:20,048
And for me immediately…
I saw Ali completely different.

627
00:47:25,679 --> 00:47:28,765
He was a bit nervous of this tension,

628
00:47:28,849 --> 00:47:33,145
so I think he was not sure what to do now.

629
00:47:54,958 --> 00:47:59,546
I told my father
that the first winter summit is over.

630
00:48:01,840 --> 00:48:05,344
There are weather changes in February.

631
00:48:09,806 --> 00:48:14,228
February is always risky because of bad
weather conditions and very high winds.

632
00:48:14,311 --> 00:48:18,315
So doing the summit
during this period will be too risky.

633
00:48:19,233 --> 00:48:22,528
We should give up because someone
has already done the summit now.

634
00:48:23,612 --> 00:48:28,075
Even the kitchen staff realized
we shouldn't push on.

635
00:48:32,162 --> 00:48:35,832
My family, especially my mother,
were very worried

636
00:48:35,916 --> 00:48:39,586
and said it is quite late,
so come back home.

637
00:48:44,216 --> 00:48:51,223
But that's when we heard that a man
named Elia is arriving to make a film.

638
00:48:51,306 --> 00:48:54,351
He will be making a film
about us climbing K2.

639
00:49:00,858 --> 00:49:02,818
The rule that I set
for myself, essentially

640
00:49:02,901 --> 00:49:06,280
was that if I was gonna take on K2
I wanted to find the right story.

641
00:49:08,365 --> 00:49:11,076
And even though Nims had summited,

642
00:49:11,785 --> 00:49:14,997
I'm not gonna lie to you, on K2 in winter,

643
00:49:15,080 --> 00:49:18,292
you'd be a fool to think
that nothing else is going to happen.

644
00:49:20,127 --> 00:49:23,589
And the story that I wanted to tell
was the story of the underdogs.

645
00:49:23,672 --> 00:49:27,801
I'd been sitting at home trying to figure
out how to get myself over to Pakistan.

646
00:49:29,636 --> 00:49:30,846
And, in the end,

647
00:49:30,929 --> 00:49:33,557
the way that I pitched this
to the military,

648
00:49:33,640 --> 00:49:36,185
was that I wanna tell a Pakistani story.

649
00:49:36,268 --> 00:49:41,607
We have your national hero mountaineer,
and his son, who are on this mountain.

650
00:49:41,690 --> 00:49:45,277
And I wanna help raise their star.

651
00:49:48,572 --> 00:49:52,201
And the military, the government,
were very interested in that.

652
00:49:54,536 --> 00:49:56,997
A lot of people
are extremely poor in Pakistan.

653
00:50:00,125 --> 00:50:02,169
Tourism is a way out.

654
00:50:06,590 --> 00:50:08,509
So, from their perspective,

655
00:50:08,592 --> 00:50:12,721
Ali's story was an opportunity
to hopefully inspire people

656
00:50:12,804 --> 00:50:15,057
to come to Pakistan
and see it all for themselves.

657
00:50:18,727 --> 00:50:21,939
The pressure became really high for Ali.

658
00:50:22,022 --> 00:50:23,857
From all sides. From the media,

659
00:50:23,941 --> 00:50:26,944
from the army that shows up,
the filming guy that shows up.

660
00:50:28,237 --> 00:50:31,865
I don't know exactly what they told him,
but it was very clear.

661
00:50:33,200 --> 00:50:35,118
Ali simply had to summit.

662
00:50:35,202 --> 00:50:38,705
To show that the Pakistanis
are as good as the Sherpas.

663
00:50:38,789 --> 00:50:42,668
Do you feel like maybe
you're very close to your dream right now?

664
00:50:42,751 --> 00:50:47,047
Inshallah, yeah.
We are very strong this year.

665
00:50:47,130 --> 00:50:48,966
We are very well acclimatized.

666
00:50:49,049 --> 00:50:53,887
And John also very strong with us,
and we do our best.

667
00:50:54,596 --> 00:51:00,811
There was so much pressure,
from the eyes, from everybody.

668
00:51:01,645 --> 00:51:05,107
Watching the team,
if they're gonna finish this or not.

669
00:51:06,149 --> 00:51:07,276
And go for it.

670
00:51:08,402 --> 00:51:12,322
I said to him, "It's almost over,
you will come home soon."

671
00:51:13,240 --> 00:51:14,658
But he decided

672
00:51:14,741 --> 00:51:20,122
he could be the first Icelander
to climb K2 in wintertime.

673
00:51:20,789 --> 00:51:26,587
So there was still a chance
to make mountaineering history, actually.

674
00:51:33,135 --> 00:51:35,762
Now, what do you think
about the camp?

675
00:51:36,346 --> 00:51:37,472
Getting empty, huh?

676
00:51:37,556 --> 00:51:40,017
- Yeah, it is.
- How many people left this morning?

677
00:51:40,100 --> 00:51:44,188
This morning maybe 14,
15 people left, yeah.

678
00:51:44,271 --> 00:51:45,105
Yeah.

679
00:51:45,856 --> 00:51:47,733
Inshallah, we also go with heli.

680
00:51:47,816 --> 00:51:50,110
No, no, no. After we summit,

681
00:51:50,194 --> 00:51:51,778
- we stay here celebrate.
- Yes.

682
00:51:51,862 --> 00:51:53,447
- In base camp.
- In base camp.

683
00:51:53,530 --> 00:51:56,992
Ali and John had been there
for a couple months at this point.

684
00:51:57,409 --> 00:52:00,078
And so they decide, "We're going for it."

685
00:52:00,662 --> 00:52:03,665
The rest of us had planned to leave.

686
00:52:03,749 --> 00:52:05,250
You see avalanche over there?

687
00:52:06,293 --> 00:52:07,294
Yeah.

688
00:52:07,377 --> 00:52:09,463
But when one person decides
they're going for it,

689
00:52:09,546 --> 00:52:12,216
there becomes this,
sort of, questioning of groupthink.

690
00:52:14,384 --> 00:52:16,637
And I remember sitting
with JP and Tamara, being like,

691
00:52:18,013 --> 00:52:21,725
"Is this expedition over, or do we stay?"

692
00:52:24,436 --> 00:52:27,439
In the days after Sergi's accident,

693
00:52:27,523 --> 00:52:30,692
I spoke with JP about this.

694
00:52:30,776 --> 00:52:33,111
Of course he was very sad.

695
00:52:34,363 --> 00:52:38,283
But I said, "Okay, mountaineering
is a discovery not only of the mountain,

696
00:52:38,367 --> 00:52:40,410
it is a discovery of yourself.

697
00:52:42,162 --> 00:52:45,999
There is no better place
to work on these feelings than here."

698
00:52:48,043 --> 00:52:49,253
Somehow I felt

699
00:52:49,336 --> 00:52:52,214
like Juan Pablo and Tamara were,
like, the most experienced.

700
00:52:52,297 --> 00:52:55,509
And they were, like, important persons
to shape also my opinion.

701
00:52:58,637 --> 00:53:04,184
And when they told me we can continue,
I felt, "Okay, I'm just Oswald."

702
00:53:04,268 --> 00:53:07,437
Like, I'm a guy
that was there just to film Magdalena.

703
00:53:07,521 --> 00:53:10,357
Like, I wasn't, like, a guy
that climbed eight-thousanders,

704
00:53:10,440 --> 00:53:13,360
that dealt with death so many times.

705
00:53:16,071 --> 00:53:20,200
A few days after Sergi died,
the whole atmosphere changed again.

706
00:53:21,451 --> 00:53:26,415
Most of the climbers somehow convinced
themselves to stay on the mountain.

707
00:53:28,041 --> 00:53:31,628
I decided I'm just gonna do
some damage control.

708
00:53:31,712 --> 00:53:35,048
I hope nobody makes a mistake,
but this is madness.

709
00:53:42,764 --> 00:53:44,766
Hello, Jan. This is John Snorri.

710
00:53:48,145 --> 00:53:53,442
Then there came news
of another possible summit window.

711
00:53:55,402 --> 00:53:57,446
Do you have, like,
a timetable of the wind,

712
00:53:57,529 --> 00:54:00,824
when the wind will start to slow down?

713
00:54:02,409 --> 00:54:04,828
I understand that, but I'm try--

714
00:54:06,955 --> 00:54:08,624
I am trying to understand.

715
00:54:09,833 --> 00:54:11,251
Yeah, you don't understand me.

716
00:54:14,630 --> 00:54:16,215
Jan, could you se--

717
00:54:17,883 --> 00:54:19,468
Don't speak any English.

718
00:54:21,470 --> 00:54:25,682
Okay, Jan. I wait-- You send me now.
You send me now. Okay?

719
00:54:26,642 --> 00:54:27,643
Bye-bye.

720
00:54:28,894 --> 00:54:30,771
He don't speak any English.

721
00:54:30,854 --> 00:54:32,022
Stuck.

722
00:54:32,105 --> 00:54:33,482
This is short window.

723
00:54:33,774 --> 00:54:35,776
Our weather man says it's too short.

724
00:54:35,859 --> 00:54:37,444
But we're gonna use it.

725
00:54:37,528 --> 00:54:39,279
Because we are-- We can.

726
00:54:39,363 --> 00:54:40,405
We can.

727
00:54:41,240 --> 00:54:42,866
If we couldn't, I would say no.

728
00:54:42,950 --> 00:54:47,329
But we can use it.
And we will try to use it. We will use it.

729
00:54:48,372 --> 00:54:49,915
I might even use it.

730
00:54:49,998 --> 00:54:51,083
Yeah, yeah. Yeah.

731
00:54:52,835 --> 00:54:54,795
I think this is our shot.

732
00:54:57,548 --> 00:54:59,049
- Very good.
- Yeah.

733
00:55:01,385 --> 00:55:02,427
Excellent.

734
00:55:05,722 --> 00:55:06,723
Yes.

735
00:55:36,587 --> 00:55:38,046
This window looks short,

736
00:55:38,130 --> 00:55:40,883
but I guess
that's the way it is in winter.

737
00:55:40,966 --> 00:55:44,011
And I'd like to remind everybody
on the timings.

738
00:55:44,094 --> 00:55:45,554
It's for your own safety.

739
00:55:45,637 --> 00:55:50,809
So I think I told you guys
six and a half hours roughly to camp one.

740
00:55:51,560 --> 00:55:54,021
Five hours from camp one to two.

741
00:55:54,104 --> 00:55:57,858
So I give that speech in basecamp
the night before everybody sets off.

742
00:55:57,941 --> 00:56:01,820
I tell them the weather window
is pretty marginal.

743
00:56:01,904 --> 00:56:05,574
And I tell people very clearly
the turnaround times.

744
00:56:06,408 --> 00:56:09,119
If somehow, on the way,

745
00:56:09,203 --> 00:56:11,955
you're not gonna make the timings,
maybe it's not your day,

746
00:56:12,039 --> 00:56:14,208
and maybe you should
forget about the summit.

747
00:56:14,291 --> 00:56:17,127
Everybody knows
this is extremely dangerous.

748
00:56:18,045 --> 00:56:19,963
Whether you're gonna take that risk or not

749
00:56:20,047 --> 00:56:23,467
in my opinion,
was up to the member, not to me.

750
00:56:26,345 --> 00:56:29,806
The day we made
the decision we are going up,

751
00:56:30,807 --> 00:56:36,647
my Sherpa told me that before
the Nepali team went to the summit,

752
00:56:38,273 --> 00:56:42,110
Nims was talking things
like cutting the ropes,

753
00:56:42,194 --> 00:56:46,240
so that nobody could follow them
and do the summit.

754
00:56:47,533 --> 00:56:49,284
I didn't say anything

755
00:56:49,368 --> 00:56:56,375
because I could not imagine people
who are really able to do that.

756
00:57:00,337 --> 00:57:03,131
But, at the same time, I know Nims.

757
00:57:03,715 --> 00:57:08,804
I know how he behaves, and what he shows.

758
00:57:10,389 --> 00:57:15,519
Don't judge him,
or anybody, from social media,

759
00:57:15,602 --> 00:57:18,647
because this is just a creation.

760
00:57:27,781 --> 00:57:29,700
- Nice morning.
- Oh, yeah.

761
00:57:32,286 --> 00:57:33,579
See you up there.

762
00:57:33,662 --> 00:57:35,372
See you up there, brother. Take care.

763
00:57:35,455 --> 00:57:37,457
Take care. Be careful of the rocks.

764
00:57:37,541 --> 00:57:39,084
I think you're on the mountain.

765
00:57:39,168 --> 00:57:40,419
Yeah, see you on the mountain.

766
00:57:46,800 --> 00:57:48,468
It's all gotten very real.

767
00:57:48,552 --> 00:57:53,182
Like, we're actually attempting
a real summit push on K2 in the winter.

768
00:57:55,309 --> 00:57:58,729
JP and Tamara had decided,
"Hey, let's climb together."

769
00:57:59,396 --> 00:58:01,732
You know, I was starting to notice
the sort of inkling

770
00:58:01,815 --> 00:58:04,776
of a romantic something
happening between the two of them.

771
00:58:04,860 --> 00:58:07,279
Although it wasn't, you know,
super openly discussed

772
00:58:07,362 --> 00:58:10,532
it was pretty obvious that they at least
had a growing love for each other.

773
00:58:12,492 --> 00:58:15,913
When I decided to start
with JP towards the summit,

774
00:58:15,996 --> 00:58:20,501
I felt really happy
that I was in the team with him and so on.

775
00:58:20,584 --> 00:58:25,255
But then he was always in front
and I think he was a bit angry.

776
00:58:25,339 --> 00:58:27,424
Because of my pace, let's say.

777
00:58:30,802 --> 00:58:32,179
I understood that,

778
00:58:32,262 --> 00:58:36,433
but then at the same time
I was asking myself

779
00:58:36,517 --> 00:58:40,479
why I needed to fall in love.
Why all this, you know?

780
00:58:40,771 --> 00:58:42,898
Here we are at camp one.

781
00:58:43,482 --> 00:58:45,609
JP, tell me something.

782
00:58:47,402 --> 00:58:49,029
We are motivated…

783
00:58:50,489 --> 00:58:52,407
for summit.

784
00:58:52,741 --> 00:58:54,368
I don't know,

785
00:58:54,451 --> 00:58:55,702
we will see.

786
00:58:56,453 --> 00:58:58,038
No pressure, no pressure.

787
00:58:58,121 --> 00:58:59,831
Pressure.

788
00:59:01,834 --> 00:59:06,964
It's hard going on that kind
of expedition, because it's a pressure.

789
00:59:09,967 --> 00:59:13,595
And now the pressure was even bigger.

790
00:59:14,388 --> 00:59:18,058
But that night, I was really so weak.

791
00:59:18,433 --> 00:59:21,562
So, yeah, sickness stopped me.

792
00:59:22,980 --> 00:59:27,150
But probably it saved
my life too.

793
00:59:33,031 --> 00:59:35,534
At that point,
none of us had been above camp two.

794
00:59:35,617 --> 00:59:39,496
And so this would be the highest
any of us had been up on the mountain.

795
00:59:40,789 --> 00:59:42,624
- Okay, Ali, John.
- Yeah?

796
00:59:42,708 --> 00:59:44,126
How are you guys doing?

797
00:59:44,960 --> 00:59:47,754
Inshallah, our plan
is go tomorrow, camp three.

798
00:59:47,838 --> 00:59:50,465
Like 7,200 meters.

799
00:59:51,175 --> 00:59:54,928
And we will see. The summit push.

800
00:59:55,679 --> 00:59:56,930
- Sajid?
- Yeah.

801
00:59:57,014 --> 00:59:59,725
- Excited?
- Summit, yeah.

802
01:00:00,184 --> 01:00:02,186
K2 in winter. Very excited.

803
01:00:03,103 --> 01:00:04,563
- Yeah.
- All right.

804
01:00:05,272 --> 01:00:07,691
The route between camp two and camp three,

805
01:00:07,774 --> 01:00:11,278
is the most technical,
challenging part of the route.

806
01:00:13,488 --> 01:00:15,616
You need to use, you know,
your crampons on rocks,

807
01:00:15,699 --> 01:00:17,201
which is just super awkward.

808
01:00:17,826 --> 01:00:19,411
With steep ice.

809
01:00:20,078 --> 01:00:22,623
It's blue ice so you need to be,

810
01:00:22,706 --> 01:00:25,584
the whole day,
on the front point of the crampons.

811
01:00:25,667 --> 01:00:28,295
It's very difficult for your body.

812
01:00:30,005 --> 01:00:34,468
And you can't really sit still
for very long or you're gonna freeze.

813
01:00:35,385 --> 01:00:36,220
Fuck.

814
01:00:36,303 --> 01:00:39,431
There's been, you know,
all sorts of stories of, you know,

815
01:00:39,515 --> 01:00:41,850
tents with no people inside
getting blown off the mountain.

816
01:00:41,934 --> 01:00:44,061
Tents full of gear.
Tents with people inside

817
01:00:44,144 --> 01:00:45,646
getting blown off the mountain.

818
01:00:48,482 --> 01:00:52,945
And Seven Summits were bringing
clients into that environment.

819
01:00:53,487 --> 01:00:55,989
Who are not qualified
to be there in the first place.

820
01:00:58,200 --> 01:01:03,121
Today I understand
why for so many years…

821
01:01:04,331 --> 01:01:07,292
no people climbed, in winter, K2.

822
01:01:07,376 --> 01:01:11,421
Amazingly difficult. Amazingly difficult.

823
01:01:12,506 --> 01:01:16,969
I'm filming this and I'm just
thinking, "This is really messed up."

824
01:01:17,052 --> 01:01:18,846
- Thank you, Elia.
- Okay.

825
01:01:18,929 --> 01:01:20,931
Thank you so much.

826
01:01:21,640 --> 01:01:23,225
I mean, it was clear to me

827
01:01:23,308 --> 01:01:26,812
that none of these clients
were going to get to camp three.

828
01:01:31,650 --> 01:01:33,318
That's like going to the moon.

829
01:01:34,695 --> 01:01:36,530
I mean, you're on the edge of space.

830
01:01:37,739 --> 01:01:41,118
You know, the blood doesn't flow
the way that it flows at sea level.

831
01:01:41,201 --> 01:01:42,619
Everyone is compromised.

832
01:01:42,703 --> 01:01:44,830
You're almost in the death zone
at that point.

833
01:01:44,913 --> 01:01:47,708
Your body is deteriorating
faster than it can recover.

834
01:01:48,584 --> 01:01:52,045
Like, it's hard to walk,
it's hard to think, it's hard to breathe,

835
01:01:52,129 --> 01:01:55,299
it's exhausting
just putting your boots on.

836
01:01:59,595 --> 01:02:02,181
I don't have footage of this,
because I just wasn't capable.

837
01:02:03,557 --> 01:02:06,185
So I set up a camp
further down the mountain,

838
01:02:07,394 --> 01:02:10,063
to allow myself to recover.

839
01:02:22,284 --> 01:02:24,745
We're here at camp three.
It's been quite a day.

840
01:02:24,828 --> 01:02:30,751
But, here now.
Gonna get inside the tent and warm up,

841
01:02:30,834 --> 01:02:32,628
and try to make some good decisions.

842
01:02:34,129 --> 01:02:35,881
This is camp three!

843
01:02:36,590 --> 01:02:38,300
We arrived at camp three.

844
01:02:38,884 --> 01:02:42,596
We're in the tent,
JP's in his tent beside me with Tamara,

845
01:02:42,679 --> 01:02:44,806
and then there's sort of
a clear moment which is like,

846
01:02:44,890 --> 01:02:50,312
"Hey, this is the last night's sleep
before this next kind of mega push.

847
01:02:50,854 --> 01:02:53,273
I need to get as much rest
as I can in camp three."

848
01:02:53,774 --> 01:02:56,485
Change socks,
melt snow and turn it into water.

849
01:02:56,568 --> 01:02:59,530
Fill up all of our water bottles,
and then continue on.

850
01:03:01,406 --> 01:03:03,116
And then the sun goes down.

851
01:03:03,200 --> 01:03:07,037
And, you know, it goes
from cold to ridiculously cold.

852
01:03:09,164 --> 01:03:14,837
The sun went away and it was becoming
so cold in this shadow.

853
01:03:15,546 --> 01:03:19,007
And I felt that the whole--

854
01:03:19,091 --> 01:03:24,555
The cold is going into my shoes,
and it was like a monster.

855
01:03:25,973 --> 01:03:29,393
You need really to think,
"Okay, do I have everything?

856
01:03:29,476 --> 01:03:33,230
Are my shoes dry? Are my boots okay?"

857
01:03:34,147 --> 01:03:40,988
It's the holy time
to prepare for the summit.

858
01:03:44,408 --> 01:03:46,243
Ali and John arrive.

859
01:03:46,326 --> 01:03:48,453
And I'm thinking to myself,
"Well, we all made it up here.

860
01:03:48,537 --> 01:03:51,123
And everyone else must have just gotten
too late in the day and realized,

861
01:03:51,206 --> 01:03:52,958
'Hey, I'm turning around.'"

862
01:03:57,713 --> 01:03:59,423
But then, long after dark,

863
01:03:59,506 --> 01:04:02,384
I start hearing these voices
outside of my tent.

864
01:04:03,385 --> 01:04:05,596
And I'm like, "Oh, my God,
they're still climbing?"

865
01:04:05,679 --> 01:04:07,514
That whole Seven Summits expedition,

866
01:04:07,598 --> 01:04:10,726
just took, how long,
12 hours or something to get here?

867
01:04:10,809 --> 01:04:12,227
I couldn't believe it.

868
01:04:18,442 --> 01:04:20,527
I arrived sometime during the night.

869
01:04:20,611 --> 01:04:24,239
I don't know if it was around
midnight or 2am. I have no idea.

870
01:04:26,950 --> 01:04:30,621
I felt strong and in good shape,
so why should I have turned around?

871
01:04:37,252 --> 01:04:38,712
And then I start hearing people saying,

872
01:04:39,004 --> 01:04:41,215
"No, you have the tent.
No, you have the tent.

873
01:04:41,298 --> 01:04:42,424
No, you have the tent."

874
01:04:42,508 --> 01:04:46,178
Like, they're all thinking
the other person is carrying their tent.

875
01:04:48,347 --> 01:04:49,515
And all of a sudden,

876
01:04:49,598 --> 01:04:52,184
head after head after head
starts popping in my tent,

877
01:04:52,267 --> 01:04:55,646
"Colin, can I come inside?
Can I come inside? Can I come inside?"

878
01:05:00,567 --> 01:05:02,486
This is a complete disaster.

879
01:05:06,448 --> 01:05:10,577
On the radio,
I start to hear Colin yelling.

880
01:05:11,036 --> 01:05:12,955
And I thought,
"Well, if this is what's unfolding,

881
01:05:13,038 --> 01:05:15,165
let me at least capture this."

882
01:05:17,876 --> 01:05:19,628
I want to be on the record,

883
01:05:19,711 --> 01:05:21,213
please record me saying this.

884
01:05:21,296 --> 01:05:23,799
I am very worried
about people's health and safety.

885
01:05:23,882 --> 01:05:26,051
There are many people
up here with no tent,

886
01:05:26,134 --> 01:05:30,222
we're at 7,600 on K2
in the middle of the night in winter.

887
01:05:32,516 --> 01:05:35,060
He was informing me
that there were no tents,

888
01:05:35,143 --> 01:05:37,563
and his tent was the only tent there.

889
01:05:37,646 --> 01:05:41,817
And slowly other people started to arrive,
and started filling up his tent.

890
01:05:42,192 --> 01:05:46,113
I'm very, very worried
about many people's health and safety,

891
01:05:46,196 --> 01:05:49,241
and that is because
of breakdown in the organization.

892
01:05:49,324 --> 01:05:51,410
No tents up here is unacceptable.

893
01:05:53,287 --> 01:05:54,872
Hi Colin, this is Arnold.

894
01:05:54,955 --> 01:05:57,583
I understand your situation completely.

895
01:05:57,666 --> 01:05:59,251
We're trying to turn around people

896
01:05:59,334 --> 01:06:03,463
but at the moment people are refusing
and that's causing a huge problem.

897
01:06:04,256 --> 01:06:08,051
Some people took more than double
the time that I told them to take

898
01:06:08,135 --> 01:06:10,304
in the speech in base camp.

899
01:06:10,387 --> 01:06:14,016
And then on the way up,
we told people to turn around.

900
01:06:14,433 --> 01:06:16,935
And nobody listened,
everybody just kept going.

901
01:06:17,019 --> 01:06:22,941
So everybody ended up
in that camp three, with not enough tents.

902
01:06:23,025 --> 01:06:26,111
And then, yeah,
what can you say, there was chaos.

903
01:06:29,281 --> 01:06:33,327
Arnold says, had people
have respected those turnaround times,

904
01:06:33,410 --> 01:06:35,954
that this wouldn't have been
an issue in the first place.

905
01:06:36,038 --> 01:06:38,415
And the problem with that argument,
from my point of view,

906
01:06:38,498 --> 01:06:42,920
is that, well, if that's your argument
and that's what you're relying on,

907
01:06:43,003 --> 01:06:45,380
what would've happened if they
would've made their turnaround times?

908
01:06:45,464 --> 01:06:47,591
They would still be in the same situation.

909
01:06:48,342 --> 01:06:51,929
So it's just, like, admit
that you made a major mistake here.

910
01:06:52,012 --> 01:06:54,890
Admit that you should have
never allowed people

911
01:06:54,973 --> 01:06:56,517
to ascend to camp three,

912
01:06:56,600 --> 01:06:59,353
without having camp three
properly stocked and prepared.

913
01:06:59,853 --> 01:07:03,398
Arnold, we're in a legitimately
bad situation right now.

914
01:07:03,482 --> 01:07:06,693
Why are their sherpas not carrying tents?

915
01:07:06,777 --> 01:07:08,320
At that point, they said,

916
01:07:08,403 --> 01:07:12,157
"Oh, well, the Nepalese were up here,
and they left some stuff on the mountain.

917
01:07:12,241 --> 01:07:13,450
Maybe there's a tent there."

918
01:07:13,534 --> 01:07:17,037
And I'm thinking,
"It was 150 miles per hour up here.

919
01:07:17,120 --> 01:07:20,123
Like, there's nothing left up here.
It's blown off the mountain."

920
01:07:20,207 --> 01:07:22,835
No one has been up here
since Nims, is that right, over?

921
01:07:23,210 --> 01:07:24,586
That's right, over.

922
01:07:25,170 --> 01:07:26,922
No shit that's right, over.

923
01:07:27,464 --> 01:07:29,633
Sherpas are also just people, you know,

924
01:07:29,716 --> 01:07:32,135
you cannot blame them
for not going up in the wind.

925
01:07:32,219 --> 01:07:33,804
Oh, I don't blame them at all.

926
01:07:33,887 --> 01:07:36,932
But I do blame you guys for trying
to pretend like tents were here

927
01:07:37,015 --> 01:07:39,476
from the 15th of January

928
01:07:39,560 --> 01:07:41,854
when we've had
150-mile-per-hour winds up here.

929
01:07:41,937 --> 01:07:43,355
Come on man, you're better than that.

930
01:07:43,814 --> 01:07:47,943
Yes. That's a big, big mistake.

931
01:07:48,026 --> 01:07:49,820
Like, I'm afraid, I'm freaked out

932
01:07:49,903 --> 01:07:51,822
and I'm essentially in the fetal position.

933
01:07:51,905 --> 01:07:54,074
Can't move my legs, can't unzip my boots,

934
01:07:54,157 --> 01:07:55,659
can't get to my backpack.

935
01:07:55,742 --> 01:07:57,911
And it's just a big sort of dog pile.

936
01:07:57,995 --> 01:08:01,707
There's no tents, no food, and…

937
01:08:02,291 --> 01:08:04,418
I think that…

938
01:08:04,501 --> 01:08:05,961
some people…

939
01:08:06,044 --> 01:08:07,880
will die this night.

940
01:08:09,423 --> 01:08:11,175
Obviously I can't understand
any of these guys

941
01:08:11,258 --> 01:08:13,510
so what are they really
fucking saying to each other?

942
01:08:13,969 --> 01:08:17,096
We're trying to make Temba,
who is the leader,

943
01:08:17,180 --> 01:08:19,600
tell everybody they have to go down.

944
01:08:20,600 --> 01:08:22,978
Please do that, take some people
out of Colin's tent.

945
01:08:23,060 --> 01:08:24,813
We'll need to make adjustments somehow.

946
01:08:27,064 --> 01:08:29,109
It's not possible at all.

947
01:08:29,193 --> 01:08:31,069
Half of us are already staying outside.

948
01:08:32,696 --> 01:08:33,988
The Sherpas are now arguing

949
01:08:34,072 --> 01:08:36,992
with a couple of people
that they have to go down.

950
01:08:37,075 --> 01:08:39,745
Let's hope the Sherpas convince them.

951
01:08:42,038 --> 01:08:44,666
I couldn't imagine descending.

952
01:08:44,750 --> 01:08:48,879
It would have been
completely impossible, at least for me.

953
01:08:53,091 --> 01:08:58,639
That's when I really felt
my body was completely exhausted.

954
01:08:58,721 --> 01:09:02,017
My feet were completely frozen,
my fingers were cold,

955
01:09:02,100 --> 01:09:04,603
and I knew something wasn't right.

956
01:09:06,939 --> 01:09:08,564
JP's tent was so small

957
01:09:08,649 --> 01:09:11,443
and then guys
from Seven Summits came in.

958
01:09:12,069 --> 01:09:17,282
And of course I was just making
myself as small as possible.

959
01:09:18,200 --> 01:09:20,493
Inside me, I already knew

960
01:09:20,577 --> 01:09:24,831
that this is not the right time
for me to make a summit attempt.

961
01:09:25,457 --> 01:09:27,501
But I didn't want to say anything

962
01:09:27,584 --> 01:09:30,921
because JP had decided
to go for the summit.

963
01:09:31,004 --> 01:09:32,714
So, if I say something now,

964
01:09:32,798 --> 01:09:35,759
then it's already negative in his mind,

965
01:09:35,843 --> 01:09:38,845
and maybe better not to say anything.

966
01:09:47,437 --> 01:09:51,024
There was chaos
and a strange situation in camp three.

967
01:09:51,649 --> 01:09:54,069
There were six people in our tent.

968
01:09:54,653 --> 01:09:58,365
So, we couldn't relax,
we couldn't even boil the water.

969
01:10:00,075 --> 01:10:03,745
Six people and no one's
boiling any water - did he say that?

970
01:10:04,079 --> 01:10:04,913
Yeah.

971
01:10:07,207 --> 01:10:10,460
When you're at 8,000 meters
on a mountain,

972
01:10:11,211 --> 01:10:12,921
you need to rest, you need to melt snow,

973
01:10:13,005 --> 01:10:15,799
you need to hydrate and you need space.

974
01:10:16,550 --> 01:10:20,762
So, three people in a single tent works.

975
01:10:20,846 --> 01:10:23,557
Six people does not work whatsoever.

976
01:10:25,601 --> 01:10:28,729
Ali and Snorri were not part of my team,

977
01:10:29,521 --> 01:10:32,482
but I still told them
it's not a good idea.

978
01:10:33,609 --> 01:10:37,321
Everybody had a bad night,
because of the chaos in camp three.

979
01:10:37,404 --> 01:10:40,449
So we kind of advised them not to go.

980
01:10:44,745 --> 01:10:48,081
I had a phone call
from John in camp three.

981
01:10:49,666 --> 01:10:52,711
They had, like,
real trouble in their tents.

982
01:10:53,921 --> 01:10:59,426
They didn't manage to rest,
they didn't manage to rub their feet,

983
01:10:59,510 --> 01:11:02,095
and just clear their mind.

984
01:11:04,264 --> 01:11:07,768
I could not ask what was going on,

985
01:11:07,851 --> 01:11:10,521
because he didn't wanna speak about it.

986
01:11:13,023 --> 01:11:16,360
But he said he's going for the summit.

987
01:11:22,533 --> 01:11:26,787
Usually, he says, "Goodbye, my love,"
or something like that.

988
01:11:26,870 --> 01:11:30,165
But there, he didn't say it.
It was like…

989
01:11:32,251 --> 01:11:33,502
just, "Bye."

990
01:12:13,041 --> 01:12:16,712
There it is. The view from camp three.

991
01:12:18,046 --> 01:12:19,381
My high spot.

992
01:12:20,757 --> 01:12:22,759
Need to feel that positive energy and…

993
01:12:22,843 --> 01:12:24,970
- Yeah, I also…
- Too much tension and…

994
01:12:25,053 --> 01:12:27,764
- Yeah.
- …just not, not, not right.

995
01:12:27,848 --> 01:12:29,016
- Yeah.
- Something's not right, so…

996
01:12:29,099 --> 01:12:31,518
- Yeah, I feel the same.
- I had to say…

997
01:12:32,227 --> 01:12:35,522
My body felt good, you know.

998
01:12:38,734 --> 01:12:39,735
But…

999
01:12:40,152 --> 01:12:42,362
- That's it.
- See you down there.

1000
01:12:42,446 --> 01:12:44,114
- You get down safe, okay?
- Yeah.

1001
01:12:44,198 --> 01:12:47,534
In the night,
JP had gone for the summit,

1002
01:12:47,618 --> 01:12:52,497
with Sajid, John Snorri and Ali.
Everyone else was coming back down.

1003
01:12:52,581 --> 01:12:53,457
Okay.

1004
01:12:56,293 --> 01:12:58,128
Time to go down!

1005
01:12:58,629 --> 01:12:59,671
- Hey, Colin.
- How are you?

1006
01:12:59,755 --> 01:13:02,633
- You've done the wise job. Huh?
- Colin.

1007
01:13:02,716 --> 01:13:04,301
- Just didn't feel right.
- No.

1008
01:13:04,718 --> 01:13:06,637
Hard to make that call, but…

1009
01:13:06,720 --> 01:13:10,224
For me it wasn't,
it was just common sense.

1010
01:13:10,307 --> 01:13:13,143
I said, "My checklist of ten things I need

1011
01:13:13,227 --> 01:13:15,854
to safely make an ascent,
I don't have nine of them."

1012
01:13:15,938 --> 01:13:17,523
- Yeah, common sense.
- Fuck.

1013
01:13:17,606 --> 01:13:18,941
That's what I said to them.

1014
01:13:20,609 --> 01:13:21,693
This doesn't work.

1015
01:13:21,777 --> 01:13:23,195
People were cooked.

1016
01:13:23,862 --> 01:13:25,656
No one had slept or rested properly.

1017
01:13:25,739 --> 01:13:28,867
Bernhard had really bad
frostbite on his toes.

1018
01:13:32,079 --> 01:13:35,249
The Sherpas said
the feet needed to be amputated.

1019
01:13:36,416 --> 01:13:38,669
In the end, I had three operations,

1020
01:13:39,378 --> 01:13:42,798
it took a very long time
and was incredibly painful.

1021
01:13:43,715 --> 01:13:46,051
All my toes are gone.

1022
01:13:46,134 --> 01:13:48,136
It was really bad.

1023
01:13:52,474 --> 01:13:54,893
You can't really describe it.

1024
01:13:57,354 --> 01:13:59,982
Everybody was just
trying to get the hell off the mountain.

1025
01:14:01,275 --> 01:14:03,485
You can't make a single mistake,

1026
01:14:03,569 --> 01:14:06,363
but these guys
hadn't had tents to sleep in,

1027
01:14:06,446 --> 01:14:08,407
so they are very tired.

1028
01:14:09,575 --> 01:14:11,410
And so, I'm rappelling.

1029
01:14:11,493 --> 01:14:12,661
I got one hand on the rope,

1030
01:14:12,744 --> 01:14:15,163
I got the other hand
on the base of the rope.

1031
01:14:15,581 --> 01:14:17,541
And all of a sudden,

1032
01:14:18,292 --> 01:14:22,087
a body, a person, flew right over my head

1033
01:14:22,171 --> 01:14:23,672
as I was descending.

1034
01:14:24,423 --> 01:14:28,635
And I turn around,
and just started yelling.

1035
01:14:30,888 --> 01:14:33,056
I get down to camp one
and I'm finally, "Okay.

1036
01:14:33,140 --> 01:14:35,559
This is the last section,
this is where Sergi fell."

1037
01:14:36,310 --> 01:14:39,396
As I'm descending down,
I look down and I see,

1038
01:14:39,855 --> 01:14:42,858
unmistakably, Atanas' body,

1039
01:14:43,525 --> 01:14:44,985
sprawled on the snow.

1040
01:14:46,612 --> 01:14:48,572
And he's dead.

1041
01:14:49,489 --> 01:14:53,535
Atanas was a Bulgarian climber,
using the Seven Summits permit.

1042
01:14:56,997 --> 01:15:00,417
After that night at camp three,
he was exhausted.

1043
01:15:04,671 --> 01:15:08,759
And exhaustion can lead to mistakes.

1044
01:15:15,599 --> 01:15:19,269
I don't even know,
but it's a 800- to 2,000-meter fall.

1045
01:15:19,353 --> 01:15:21,230
You cannot survive that.

1046
01:15:21,313 --> 01:15:25,067
So we know it's a recovery, and--

1047
01:15:25,150 --> 01:15:27,402
but the problem is we
have his girlfriend there.

1048
01:15:27,986 --> 01:15:30,072
You wanna talk to the Sherpa?

1049
01:15:30,155 --> 01:15:32,449
He can explain what happened.

1050
01:15:32,533 --> 01:15:34,243
It was horrible, and…

1051
01:15:35,285 --> 01:15:38,956
you know, when I'm gonna tell her,
everybody's kind of hiding

1052
01:15:39,039 --> 01:15:42,000
and trying to make a post
for social media.

1053
01:15:46,296 --> 01:15:47,923
This is very stressful.

1054
01:15:48,340 --> 01:15:50,342
And it only got worse from that point.

1055
01:15:55,097 --> 01:15:58,225
When I got back to base camp,

1056
01:15:58,600 --> 01:16:03,021
Atanas just fell down,
and it was just chaos.

1057
01:16:03,564 --> 01:16:08,652
I thought, now I just wait JP coming down,
and then just let's go away.

1058
01:16:10,279 --> 01:16:12,239
But the first question was,

1059
01:16:12,322 --> 01:16:16,743
"Do you have news about JP,
and Ali and John and so on?"

1060
01:16:18,495 --> 01:16:23,667
I realized that a bit of tension
was already in their question.

1061
01:16:24,626 --> 01:16:27,087
Base camp for Sajid,
base camp for camp three.

1062
01:16:30,299 --> 01:16:34,428
I heard from Sajid
that he came from Bottleneck,

1063
01:16:35,012 --> 01:16:37,472
around 10am in the morning.

1064
01:16:37,556 --> 01:16:40,225
Like, his regulator was not working well.

1065
01:16:40,309 --> 01:16:42,477
So he came to camp three,

1066
01:16:42,561 --> 01:16:48,317
and John, Ali and J. Pablo,
they went up from Bottleneck.

1067
01:16:49,067 --> 01:16:52,905
We should be realistic,
like, around about…

1068
01:16:52,988 --> 01:16:55,699
well, they should be here,
but it's now late,

1069
01:16:55,782 --> 01:16:58,535
so we are a little bit worried.

1070
01:16:59,661 --> 01:17:01,914
I walk over into the main comms tent,

1071
01:17:01,997 --> 01:17:05,667
and Arnold and Elia,
and a few others are in there,

1072
01:17:05,751 --> 01:17:08,712
and they have a really
worried look on their faces.

1073
01:17:09,338 --> 01:17:14,593
We lose contact with Ali
and JP and Snorri,

1074
01:17:14,676 --> 01:17:17,095
but Sajid is still
in camp three at that moment.

1075
01:17:19,348 --> 01:17:23,018
If you go outside,
be sure to get ready properly.

1076
01:17:23,101 --> 01:17:24,645
Is he coming down, or what is he doing?

1077
01:17:24,728 --> 01:17:26,522
He still is waiting up there.

1078
01:17:26,605 --> 01:17:28,857
I mean, as any son would, right?

1079
01:17:28,941 --> 01:17:30,859
There was no way he was going anywhere.

1080
01:17:31,193 --> 01:17:33,487
But he's got this burden
that he's now carrying,

1081
01:17:33,570 --> 01:17:36,281
where he doesn't know
what happened to everyone else.

1082
01:17:40,118 --> 01:17:43,747
The problem was that
the weather was changing.

1083
01:17:44,456 --> 01:17:48,043
From 30-mile-an-hour winds
and minus 50 plus wind chill,

1084
01:17:48,126 --> 01:17:51,380
you know, to 60-, 70-,
80-mile-an-hour winds.

1085
01:17:51,463 --> 01:17:54,842
So it was crucial that Sajid
descend the mountain.

1086
01:17:56,260 --> 01:17:59,596
But he's supposed to just,
like, leave his father?

1087
01:17:59,680 --> 01:18:01,765
Like, there's a pretty…
'Cause what if he could help them?

1088
01:18:01,849 --> 01:18:04,142
What if he could rescue them?
What if they're just right there?

1089
01:18:04,226 --> 01:18:07,646
So there's a bunch of frantic dialogue
back across these radios…

1090
01:18:07,729 --> 01:18:09,022
Base camp. Over.

1091
01:18:09,106 --> 01:18:10,274
Sajid, Sajid.

1092
01:18:10,357 --> 01:18:14,903
…saying, like, "If you don't leave soon,
you're also gonna get stuck up there."

1093
01:18:39,178 --> 01:18:40,053
Thank you.

1094
01:18:42,055 --> 01:18:43,015
Welcome back.

1095
01:18:44,683 --> 01:18:45,893
I was scared.

1096
01:19:03,952 --> 01:19:05,412
Sajid!

1097
01:19:26,183 --> 01:19:28,852
Sajid came down to base camp.

1098
01:19:31,063 --> 01:19:32,523
I went immediately there.

1099
01:19:32,606 --> 01:19:36,693
And of course he was the one
who saw them the last time.

1100
01:19:36,777 --> 01:19:39,404
So I needed to know.

1101
01:19:41,240 --> 01:19:43,909
And this was…

1102
01:19:44,576 --> 01:19:46,328
nearly breaking my heart.

1103
01:19:52,835 --> 01:19:56,380
I was exhausted
and I tried to fix the oxygen,

1104
01:19:56,463 --> 01:19:59,925
but there was
a malfunction in the regulator.

1105
01:20:03,303 --> 01:20:07,933
But my father told me,
I couldn't continue climbing.

1106
01:20:11,562 --> 01:20:16,024
So, they continued climbing up
and my last memory

1107
01:20:16,108 --> 01:20:20,070
is seeing them climb up at the Bottleneck.

1108
01:20:20,821 --> 01:20:23,490
I decided to come back. They are going up,

1109
01:20:23,574 --> 01:20:25,200
going up like this.

1110
01:20:27,035 --> 01:20:29,788
Not coming. I wait, wait, wait, wait.

1111
01:20:30,539 --> 01:20:32,207
All night long.

1112
01:20:32,291 --> 01:20:33,208
Hello?

1113
01:20:34,209 --> 01:20:35,335
Hello?

1114
01:20:36,253 --> 01:20:40,716
I couldn't tell my mother.

1115
01:20:41,925 --> 01:20:44,386
I just told her
that the search mission is going on.

1116
01:20:49,141 --> 01:20:51,226
You know, earlier on, I said,

1117
01:20:52,352 --> 01:20:56,231
you go into these things
hoping something's gonna happen.

1118
01:21:05,616 --> 01:21:07,951
What do you remember about John?

1119
01:21:08,035 --> 01:21:09,661
John, he was too motivated, yeah.

1120
01:21:09,745 --> 01:21:10,996
He wants summit, yeah.

1121
01:21:11,079 --> 01:21:14,333
And he said
that we can't stop, we do this, yeah.

1122
01:21:14,917 --> 01:21:17,669
- And what about your dad?
- He was too motivated.

1123
01:21:17,753 --> 01:21:19,463
Can you say "my father"?

1124
01:21:19,546 --> 01:21:21,131
My father was too motivated.

1125
01:21:21,215 --> 01:21:25,135
Before, he said,
"It's my dream to climb K2 in winter".

1126
01:21:27,513 --> 01:21:31,767
But then when Sajid
said something along the lines of,

1127
01:21:31,850 --> 01:21:33,810
"There's no way that they can survive."

1128
01:21:34,978 --> 01:21:37,898
Do you have any hope right now,
with the search and rescue?

1129
01:21:37,981 --> 01:21:40,108
No. I know mountains, I'm also a climber.

1130
01:21:40,192 --> 01:21:42,361
I know the situation up there.

1131
01:21:42,444 --> 01:21:45,781
Now three days, in 8,000, in winter,

1132
01:21:45,864 --> 01:21:48,700
I think there is no hope.
I know this clearly, yeah.

1133
01:21:48,784 --> 01:21:52,162
Because I know the reality
in the mountains.

1134
01:21:52,496 --> 01:21:54,289
No. It's finished, yeah.

1135
01:21:54,373 --> 01:21:55,916
Closed, yeah.

1136
01:22:02,089 --> 01:22:03,882
That was the moment for me,

1137
01:22:03,966 --> 01:22:08,428
where I realized I have gone
overboard, you know,

1138
01:22:08,512 --> 01:22:12,224
to a degree where it's like,
"What am I doing right now?

1139
01:22:13,559 --> 01:22:15,018
This is fucking real.

1140
01:22:15,936 --> 01:22:17,604
Nobody wants a camera around."

1141
01:22:36,748 --> 01:22:39,459
In my mind, he was still alive,

1142
01:22:40,252 --> 01:22:43,797
and when they started to pack up,

1143
01:22:45,424 --> 01:22:49,803
I couldn't imagine John to walk down
and everybody was gone.

1144
01:22:49,887 --> 01:22:51,847
Everything was gone.

1145
01:22:52,764 --> 01:22:58,270
I asked them to leave food,
leave clothes and stuff

1146
01:22:58,353 --> 01:23:01,356
that would be for them, if they come down.

1147
01:23:11,825 --> 01:23:14,369
A person is just sitting
at home with his wife

1148
01:23:14,453 --> 01:23:16,830
and then suddenly
he goes up into the air here,

1149
01:23:16,914 --> 01:23:19,124
just to get a little fame.

1150
01:23:19,208 --> 01:23:24,463
Thinking that if I do this,
then good things will happen for me.

1151
01:23:24,546 --> 01:23:27,299
They should have been careful.

1152
01:23:27,382 --> 01:23:28,550
Yes.

1153
01:23:53,242 --> 01:23:57,621
But then when everybody
actually left the mountain…

1154
01:24:10,008 --> 01:24:14,429
…well, I came to realize
that maybe he was gone.

1155
01:24:18,308 --> 01:24:20,644
It was kinda the first time that…

1156
01:24:23,021 --> 01:24:25,107
I knew that…

1157
01:24:25,732 --> 01:24:28,569
maybe he would not return.

1158
01:24:39,288 --> 01:24:42,332
When I look back
and piece together this entire thing,

1159
01:24:43,292 --> 01:24:45,627
you can Monday morning
quarterback it all day.

1160
01:24:46,211 --> 01:24:49,173
But the people that died on this mountain

1161
01:24:49,256 --> 01:24:52,718
were actually the most experienced people.

1162
01:24:56,013 --> 01:25:00,392
There's a reason that, in 2021,
with all the modern equipment

1163
01:25:00,475 --> 01:25:01,727
and forecasts and whatever,

1164
01:25:01,810 --> 01:25:04,354
still no one had stood
on top of this mountain in winter.

1165
01:25:04,438 --> 01:25:06,148
And no one has ever since.

1166
01:25:09,610 --> 01:25:13,238
No one goes to a mountain to die.

1167
01:25:16,200 --> 01:25:18,827
People go to a mountain to climb it

1168
01:25:20,704 --> 01:25:22,706
and to tell about it.

1169
01:25:24,958 --> 01:25:26,835
Audiences are interested

1170
01:25:26,919 --> 01:25:30,797
because life and death are the big topics,

1171
01:25:31,381 --> 01:25:33,800
the eternal topics.

1172
01:25:36,178 --> 01:25:41,558
They want to see mountaineers
put their lives in danger

1173
01:25:42,351 --> 01:25:45,521
on an Instagram post
or on a social media post.

1174
01:25:47,773 --> 01:25:49,691
But in the end…

1175
01:25:50,567 --> 01:25:56,281
this expedition ended
with ten climbers on the summit

1176
01:25:57,449 --> 01:25:58,951
and five dead.

1177
01:26:01,245 --> 01:26:03,038
That is not a good balance.

1178
01:26:10,087 --> 01:26:14,049
So, where were you last
when you saw your dad?

1179
01:26:14,132 --> 01:26:16,510
When I last saw, I'm here.

1180
01:26:17,135 --> 01:26:19,972
Yeah, they are here,
there is the fixed rope.

1181
01:26:20,055 --> 01:26:21,056
Okay.

1182
01:26:21,431 --> 01:26:22,724
There, outside.

1183
01:26:29,064 --> 01:26:33,777
I wanted to go to K2
and find out what had happened.

1184
01:26:38,866 --> 01:26:45,831
As a son, it was my obligation
to find and bury him.

1185
01:26:46,915 --> 01:26:50,210
Is it possible to get the body out
and bring it down?

1186
01:26:50,627 --> 01:26:53,380
The face isn't clear.

1187
01:26:53,463 --> 01:26:55,424
Don't upload this to social media, please.

1188
01:26:56,008 --> 01:26:58,010
- You okay?
- I'm okay.

1189
01:26:58,468 --> 01:27:01,471
No one's gonna put it
on social media. Don't worry.

1190
01:27:11,315 --> 01:27:14,443
JP's mother told me,
when I was there last year,

1191
01:27:15,944 --> 01:27:18,947
"Tamara, if you had these feelings for JP,

1192
01:27:19,907 --> 01:27:23,076
why you didn't tell him to stay down?"

1193
01:27:25,120 --> 01:27:27,497
But I never felt like this.

1194
01:27:29,374 --> 01:27:32,586
The thing I mostly regret, you know,

1195
01:27:32,669 --> 01:27:37,132
is that I didn't give him a big hug

1196
01:27:37,216 --> 01:27:39,092
and, you know…

1197
01:27:40,928 --> 01:27:42,596
a real goodbye.

1198
01:28:02,533 --> 01:28:06,328
I was sent a photo of him and…

1199
01:28:07,371 --> 01:28:13,627
it kind of helped me
to go to him in my head,

1200
01:28:13,710 --> 01:28:18,215
and hug him and say, "It's okay."

1201
01:28:18,298 --> 01:28:19,591
You know?

1202
01:28:23,303 --> 01:28:27,683
Just to tell him
I forgive him that he will not come home.

1203
01:28:29,977 --> 01:28:33,689
And I will take care
of our children and…

1204
01:28:58,672 --> 01:29:01,008
We found the bodies, and we realized

1205
01:29:01,091 --> 01:29:03,802
that they got stuck in the storm.

1206
01:29:03,886 --> 01:29:05,804
Ya Allahu Akbar.

1207
01:29:05,888 --> 01:29:08,599
We didn't find any evidence
that they summit.

1208
01:29:10,058 --> 01:29:12,394
But summit or not summit?

1209
01:29:13,061 --> 01:29:15,189
It's not matter for me.

1210
01:29:16,106 --> 01:29:18,192
They are no more.

1211
01:29:22,821 --> 01:29:28,493
Dying there is not that easy,
it's one of the hardest deaths.

1212
01:29:28,577 --> 01:29:31,413
It's hard to believe.
It's one of the hardest.

1213
01:29:31,496 --> 01:29:34,082
If someone die in an accident,
fell down…

1214
01:29:34,166 --> 01:29:37,211
it's over in a few seconds.

1215
01:29:37,294 --> 01:29:42,341
But stuck in the storm
and someone freezing there,

1216
01:29:42,424 --> 01:29:45,093
it's not that easy.

1217
01:29:54,061 --> 01:29:57,481
I won't say that the Nepalis betrayed us.

1218
01:29:57,564 --> 01:30:03,987
But still, if they had told us,
we could all have done it together.

1219
01:30:08,575 --> 01:30:11,203
Ali was a really good friend of mine.

1220
01:30:12,913 --> 01:30:17,042
What some said was

1221
01:30:17,125 --> 01:30:19,127
that we cut the rope at the top.

1222
01:30:19,837 --> 01:30:24,883
And took the rope away, once we cut it.

1223
01:30:24,967 --> 01:30:28,178
Those were the rumors that were spreading.

1224
01:30:28,262 --> 01:30:31,390
It made me sad.

1225
01:30:31,473 --> 01:30:35,894
Because I am a Sherpa,
of Buddhist religion.

1226
01:30:37,646 --> 01:30:40,148
But sometimes,
Nimsdai is the kind of person

1227
01:30:40,232 --> 01:30:42,943
who says things in the moment
without thinking much.

1228
01:30:47,656 --> 01:30:49,032
Yeah. I mean for me,

1229
01:30:49,116 --> 01:30:51,577
part of why I wanted to go back
in the summer

1230
01:30:51,660 --> 01:30:55,539
was because of the allegation
that Nims cut the ropes.

1231
01:30:57,332 --> 01:30:59,543
Well, we photographed the ropes up there.

1232
01:31:00,169 --> 01:31:01,670
There was no foul play.

1233
01:31:04,298 --> 01:31:10,179
Last winter we gave
700-meter rope, this rope, to the Sherpas

1234
01:31:10,262 --> 01:31:13,599
to fix, especially Bottleneck
and for summit push.

1235
01:31:13,682 --> 01:31:17,603
But now I went till summit
and there's many, many ropes

1236
01:31:17,686 --> 01:31:20,063
are fixed and anchored.

1237
01:31:20,606 --> 01:31:25,152
So there is no rope cut from Sherpas.
This is fake news.

1238
01:31:31,575 --> 01:31:35,746
So, I think it's fair to say
that Nims said what he said

1239
01:31:35,829 --> 01:31:39,750
without actually having the intention
of cutting the ropes.

1240
01:31:48,592 --> 01:31:50,844
But the tents at camp three, you know,

1241
01:31:50,928 --> 01:31:53,263
this for me,
I mean, that was the sticking point.

1242
01:31:56,850 --> 01:31:59,937
Had this catastrophe not have unfolded
the way that it unfolded,

1243
01:32:00,020 --> 01:32:01,813
with all the commercial climbers,

1244
01:32:02,856 --> 01:32:05,692
and had John, Ali and Juan Pablo

1245
01:32:05,776 --> 01:32:09,112
actually been able to get warm,
to mentally prepare, and to sleep,

1246
01:32:09,613 --> 01:32:11,698
they would have summited
that mountain safely,

1247
01:32:11,782 --> 01:32:14,743
and descended safely,
and they would still be alive today.

1248
01:32:18,664 --> 01:32:21,875
You know, there is a trail of negligence.

1249
01:32:24,127 --> 01:32:26,129
And it starts with Seven Summits.

1250
01:32:29,633 --> 01:32:31,677
Well, I can understand his thinking.

1251
01:32:31,760 --> 01:32:35,889
Of course, if you have a bad night,
the next morning, the risks are higher.

1252
01:32:37,307 --> 01:32:40,143
But that doesn't mean
you have to continue

1253
01:32:40,227 --> 01:32:42,688
for your summit push,
you know, no matter what.

1254
01:32:42,771 --> 01:32:44,273
That's not our call.

1255
01:32:44,356 --> 01:32:49,194
We didn't send Ali up,
actually, we did the opposite.

1256
01:32:49,278 --> 01:32:53,156
We tried to convince him
that maybe it's not a good time now.

1257
01:32:54,366 --> 01:32:57,411
But the army generals show up in base camp

1258
01:32:57,494 --> 01:33:01,957
and then came the guy who makes
the documentary about him,

1259
01:33:03,417 --> 01:33:07,796
and it put a tremendous amount
of pressure on Ali, especially.

1260
01:33:09,256 --> 01:33:11,258
When I think about it now,

1261
01:33:11,341 --> 01:33:14,136
this was a very strange expedition

1262
01:33:14,219 --> 01:33:17,181
and I learnt a lot
about fame or something.

1263
01:33:17,264 --> 01:33:18,807
Are we all happy?

1264
01:33:18,891 --> 01:33:23,562
For example, the idea was
to give Nepal a moment of fame,

1265
01:33:23,645 --> 01:33:25,814
but Nims, actually, got in the spotlight,

1266
01:33:25,898 --> 01:33:28,317
and all the other people
are kind of forgotten.

1267
01:33:32,529 --> 01:33:36,450
At the end, it's only the people
who have the money and power

1268
01:33:36,533 --> 01:33:40,120
that really benefit from this achievement.

1269
01:33:40,204 --> 01:33:43,498
And the guys who don't speak good English

1270
01:33:43,582 --> 01:33:46,543
and cannot express themselves
in the media that good,

1271
01:33:46,627 --> 01:33:48,670
they didn't get anything from that.

1272
01:33:48,754 --> 01:33:51,340
They're just still
the same climbing Sherpa

1273
01:33:51,423 --> 01:33:52,799
what they were before.

1274
01:34:01,099 --> 01:34:03,268
We have a legacy

1275
01:34:03,352 --> 01:34:08,273
and the Sadparas
are famous for mountaineering.

1276
01:34:30,462 --> 01:34:35,092
All things considered,
I am wondering about mountaineering.

1277
01:34:35,175 --> 01:34:39,805
I am thinking about whether I should
continue this profession or not.

1278
01:34:46,854 --> 01:34:51,358
But Father loved
the mountains his entire life

1279
01:34:51,441 --> 01:34:57,114
and he died with them.

1280
01:35:00,826 --> 01:35:07,374
He is in the mountains now
and will forever stay there.